Many times I have written on these pages that the next frontier of Tuscan winemaking lies with Maremma. In fact, it seems that each time I frequent a wine shop after being away for a length of time, a new wine from Bolgheri has emerged. Indeed, family after family have endeavored to acquire property along the Tuscan coast which seems to be an optimal home for crafting Tuscan wines from Bordelaise varietals. Clarets with an Italian accent! Perhaps what is more amazing is that a pair of brothers realized this trend long before many others and have been making wines along the coast for over a decade. Today we’re focusing on one of those wines; a “second” wine actually but one that is turning heads rapidly.
During his time running Ornellaia, Lodovico Antinori learned of another property from his General Manager when they were searching for vineyards to expand the Ornellaia estate. Upon the discovery of what today is Tenuta di Biserno, Antinori realized that the incredibly rocky and boulder strewn estate would be a sizeable endeavour and a project unto itself. Therefore, in 2002, he enlisted the help of his brother Piero and Tenuta di Biserno was born.
The 2015 Tenuta di Biserno Il Pino is simply a stunning wine. It’s a blackish purple in color that is impenetrable. Without decanting the aromas of the wine skyrocket from the glass. Crushed black fruits, ripe tobacco, cigar box, crushed rosemary and espresso are seamless and gorgeous. On the palate, this wine is ripe, smooth, seductive and frankly voluptuous without for one second losing its elegant nature. Full bodied with fully ripe, silky woven tannins, this is so delicious right now. That may seem like a concern, but you must remember this is really the third wine of the estate. So you can drink these in the short term while waiting for the more substantial 2015s to cellar. To my taste, this is the best Il Pino I’ve ever tasted. The price is creeping up, but among its contemporary peers, this represents a great value. 96 points. About $50. Find this wine.