People ask me from time to time – what’s so great about wine? Why do you like wine so much? This wine, is one of the reasons why. Read on….
Despite the youth of the wine, I decided not to decant it, but I did open it about 40 minutes before sitting down to dinner. Not knowing too much about this producer, I decided to pick the brain of a friend who is a prominent figure in one of the leading Montalcino wineries. He told me that Brunello from the area where Stella di Campalto is produced tend to be more forward and darker in color; ala Fanti. So I was a bit surprised that the color wasn’t blackish, but instead a dark ruby red. It also displayed that slight copper hueing around the rim, a classic Brunello trait, but the color surprised me nonetheless.
The wine needs not a swirl in the glass to lift the aromas. There are deep penetrating aromas leaping from the glass: crushed berries, cherry, violets, lavendar, a sweet fruity, earthy, perfume scent, all mingling at once. Intensity!
In the mouth, the wine is full bodied, and filled with loads of ripe juicy fruit that coat your mouth. The tannins are completely integrated, so that it seems as though they’re not even asserting themselves. The acids lift the fruit, so that the fruit seems to dance in your mouth. On the finish there is a wonderful, sweet, floral aspect to the fruit. It’s frankly unlike any Brunello I’ve had, and clearly among the best Brunello I’ve tasted in recent memory. This is a gorgeous, sexy, juicy and delicious wine that is already strutting it’s complexity and it’s nuance. It’s in perfect harmony, balanced, integrated. Like a fine super model or an immaculate grand orchestra. And I’m understating it.
The only thing that causes me the slightest bit of concern are the seemingly absent tannins. Will it affect the way the wine ages? Doubtful, but this isn’t something I’d choose to cellar forever. You can hold it for at least 5 years, but I’m left thinking, why would you? It’s so good now. A wow wine for sure. 98 points.
|2006 Stella di Campalto Brunello di Montalcino|
February 15, 2012