The Caprili estate spreads over an area of 58 hectares in the southwest corner of the Brunello DOCG on hillsides that slope toward the Orcia and Ombrone rivers. Founded only in 1965 by Alfo Bartolommei it’s become some of the best terroir in the zone despite the relative youth of the estate.
This advantageous terroir proved its mettle with the 2008 vintage in Brunello. As I reported, the 2008 vintage was somewhat uneven. While not considered a classic vintage, the wines offer early drinkability and are highly perfumed with lots of elegant and even feminine qualities. Understandably, very few producers vinified a Brunello Riserva in 2008 but Caprili decided to do so with wonderful success. Recently, I caught up with Giacomo Bartolommei and asked him what about 2008 was special for Caprili?
“Giovanni, we believed that 2008 was a spectacular vintage for Caprili because of its great structure and great ability to be kept for many many years in bottle. Also the grapes picked were really great and for Caprili should be considered really a great vintage. This kind of attitude we didn’t see in 2007 and in fact we dropped all the Riserva into the regular vintage that year.”
With various entrees of shirt ribs, grilled ribeye steak, and ravioli filled with veal and sage, we decided to put this Riserva to the test.
We decanted the wine for 60 minutes before dinner – no sediment was removed but clearly the development of the aromas over that time were noticeable. I would advise decanting even longer if you try one of these now.
In the glass, the wine is a deep lovely ruby red color that fades slightly to copper at the rim of the glass. The aromas coming from the wine speak to the vintage admirably. Loads of fresh flowers, crushed wild berry, leaf tobacco and soft sandalwood scents are notable. It is lovely to smell.
On the palate, the wine possesses wonderful structure, in both the moderate tannins that are well integrated and the juicy acidity. Dominant are elegant full bodied flavors of wild cherry accented with new leather, dusty minerals, fennel seed and Tuscan scrub. Balanced, fresh and lively, the wine excelled with all dishes at the table. It may not possess the brawn and power that one might associate with Brunello Riserva, but it’s a clear step up from many of the 2008s I’ve tasted. Remarkable. 93 points. Disclosure: This bottle was a producer provided sample.
|~ Caprili Riserva 2008 ~|
Stay tuned to TuscanVines for more from Caprili – coming soon.
April 24, 2015