Fattoria Le Pupille sits among the southern coastal hills of Tuscany known as the “Maremma”. The Maremma is a wild, vast expanse of rustic, natural land in south western Tuscany known for its allure of the past. Cowboys raise their cattle, agrotourism is prominent and many prestigious wineries flourish here. In fact, some of the greatest wines in Italy hail from Maremma: Sassicaia, Ornellaia, Masseto. Not to be lost in this group, is Saffredi – the Bordeaux blend from Fattoria Le Pupille.
Originally just seven acres, family-owned Le Pupille first grew under the guiding hand of famed enologist Giacomo Tachis (of Sassicaia fame) but family proprietor Elisabetta Geppetti has been in charge since the mid-’80s. Not only has she been heaped with accolades and professional awards, but her commitment to “tradition, typicality, and terroir” shines through in every bottle of Elisabetta’s wines.
The 1997 Saffredi is one such astounding example. A blend of 60% Cabernet, 30% Merlot and 10% Alicante, the wine is dark purple to black in the glass with just a hint of violet at the rim. With about 40 minutes air time, the nose of this wine blossomed. Crushed flowers, slight mint, cedar, black plums, spice and leather fill the air. It’s possible to smell the wine from the table without even lifting the glass. In the mouth, the wine is seamless and powerful, yet elegant. The hallmark of a truly great wine – one which can command attention with nary the effort. Juicy ripe waves of black fruits, tinged with coffee sweep over the palate. Earth, brush, and mint are pleasant on the long finish. Tannins are silky, ripe, and well resolved. There was a large sediment in the bottle. There’s not much more to say here other than “wow”. Well done. 98 points. About $45 upon release.
|1997 Fattoria Le Pupille Saffredi|
July 24, 2012