|~ Damilano Vineyards ~|
It began in 1890, when Giuseppe Borgogno left his family wine business and began vinifying his own estate wines. That passion transcended the years until the founder’s son in law, Giacomo Damilano took the reins of the winery and gave the label its current identity. Today, it’s the 4th generation that run the winery; Giacomo’s grandchildren Guido, Mario and Paolo.
|~ The Damilanos : I had the pleasure to meet Guido at the Vias Portfolio tasting earlier this year. I can attest to his commitment and passion for their properties and wines ~|
Today the Damilanos have 53 hectares of vineyards in some of the most prestigious Crus of Piemonte including Cannubi, Cerequio, Liste, and Brunate. They vinify wines from each of the separate Crus but also create a fifth Barolo called “Le Cinque Vigne” which is an overall blend from different areas of the Barolo zone. In total, the winery produces almost 325,000 bottles per year.
If asked to name the premier vineyard in all of Piedmont, I suspect the majority of replies would include “Cannubi”. The earliest recorded bottle of wine from this amazing parcel of land rests in the cellars of the Manzone family and is labeled “Cannubi 1752”. This could not be more significant because it suggests that the usage of the word “Cannubi” to label wines was employed well before the word “Barolo” came to be.
I’ve been fortunate enough to have numerous bottlings from Cannubi from many different producers and at varying ages. It is, without a doubt, an amazing vineyard with unquestioned pedigree.
|~ Cannubi ~|
The Damilanos own 2 hectares in Cannubi and have long term lease contracts on another 8 hectares. The combination of the two makes them the largest parcel owners of the vineyard. Today, we’re focusing on their 2008.
The 2008 Damilano Barolo Cannubi is a deep ruby red color that lightens only slightly to brick at the rim of the bowl. However, one can already notice the orange hues that will become more apparent as this Nebbiolo ages.
We decanted the wine for 60 minutes before dinner which was simply, grilled porterhouse steak with sauteed porcini. On the nose, the wine is striking. Intense aromas of crushed red plum, autumn leaves, asian spice and fennel permeate the air. Not to be outdone, the wine is glorious on the palate. Ripe plums, tobacco, tea leaf, fennel and herb notes combine harmoniously. The persistence of the flavors is remarkable. Well balanced, the acidity makes this lively and juicy and the tannins are easily balanced by the core of ripe fruit. Delicious right now but will only gain complexity and bottle sweet aristocracy as it cellars. Utterly remarkable. 97 points. Very reasonably priced around $65.
|~ Goreous Barolo from a vineyard that notable critic James Suckling called a “Vineyard Kissed by God” ~|
All hail Cannubi!
November 30, 2015