After tasting some of the more approachable 2008 Barolo at Slow Wine last month, I decided it was time to turn the clock back a bit and try one of the more modern 2006 Barolo to see how expressive they would be at this point. Typically, I enjoy my Barolo old, usually very old. But in this case, I needed to make an exception.
Elvio Cogno has been making wine for decades in the Langhe and in 1990, broke off from his partnership with Marcarini to begin bottling his own wine. The estate, which sits just outside the hamlet of Novello, is a gorgeous working farm and home to the Cogno’s. Current winemaker, Valter Fissore, Cogno’s son in law – typically crafts 4 Barolo, vintage conditions permitting. The Cascina Nuova is typically the most approachable produced.
The 2006 Elvio Cogno Cascina Nuova Barolo is produced from young vines that are 8-14 years of age. The wine is aged for two years in large casks, followed by six months in bottle before release. It’s a deep dark garnet in the decanter, beautiful color and a bit deeper than I might have expected. In the glass, the rustic, brick red umber color of Nebbiolo is more apparent. The aromas rise nicely and feature classic components of spicy cherry fruit, slight asphalt and flowers. In the mouth, the wine is medium to full bodied with a ripe core of wild cherry fruit accented with spicy anise undertones. It’s a very “polished” wine – a bit less rustic than other Barolo and stylistically falls somewhere in the middle between traditional and avant garde. Balanced well, the wine is approachable now, but can be cellared 5-7 years. 91 points, about $30.
|Cogno Barolo Cascina Nuova with: parma, capicola, bread and cambozola