Col d’Orcia is a venerable producer of Brunello di Montalcino. Located in the warmer southern part of the zone, the estate is often one of the first to harvest. However, the unique exposition of their vineyards, which are protected from nature’s harshest impacts by Mount Amiata, benefit the vines and allow optimal maturation of the grapes.
The Poggio al Vento vineyard, which translates as “Windy Hill”, lies at the top of Col d’Orcia’s estate over 1,500 feet above sea level. The winds from Mount Amiata provide ventilation to the vines which prevents various fungal diseases. Planted in 1974, the vineyard provides complex grapes used solely for Brunello Riserva. The property is the largest certified organic producer in Tuscany.
Recently I reported on a wonderful Brunello from Col d’Orcia’s cellar. Today, we’re discussing one of the estates newest releases. The 2012 Col d’Orica Poggio Al Vento Brunello Riserva is a spectacular wine. A deep ruby in the glass with lots of violet reflections, the wine is very pretty to look at.
Plentiful aromas of crushed cherry, toasted spice, fresh flowers and cypress, this displays all the fresh, inviting hallmarks of the vintage. On the palate the wine is full bodied, but presents an elegant, graceful profile. Deep flavors of cherry are accented by lavender, rosemary and pipe tobacco. Long, juicy and fresh, the tannins are obvious but well integrated. This is so tempting now but you know it just has better years ahead of it. I’ve tasted many older vintages at Benvenuto Brunello and clearly this will benefit cellar time. A good value as Riserva goes I’d be happy to put a few bottles away. Try in 2024. 95 points. About $90. Find this wine.
Here are two more data points on the Poggio al Vento – from 2001 and 2007. This is a Brunello that rewards patience.