|~ Enrico & Elisa Scavino ~|
It’s one word, Monvigliero. To know it, is to know elegance and absolute feminine grace. This is not to say that there’s no power here; for like the cutlass in modern warfare, this wine is the ultimate anachronism.
Monvigliero is a new wine from the Scavino stable, but not a new vineyard. Elisa Scavino described the family’s history with this vineyard to me:
“The Monvigliero vineyard is an historic and prestigious cru among Barolo lovers coming from a small commune, Verduno located on the northern boundary of Barolo region. We enjoyed beautiful Barolo from the Monvigliero vineyard for years before having the lucky chance in 2000 to rent a small plot of this cru. It’s just a little more than half a hectare with quite old vines. The soil is very complex and fine there, limestone mixed with chalk and with south-east exposure. There were all the conditions to make a great wine in addition to the excellent reputation of the area. We were blending the Monvigliero into our Barolo and then decided to make it as a single vineyard wine. Finally, 7 years later, we bought it. We feel this vineyard adds great value to our estate.”
On New Year’s Eve, we opened the 2008 Scavino Barolo Monvigliero. Paired with antipasti initially, various cheeses, breads, salume, and smoked duck breast, this wine absolutely sang. Decanted for 60 minutes, the wine is a bright, dark violet in the glass. The aromas on this young Barolo are perfumed; perhaps moreso than one would expect. There’s an abundant wealth of flowers that are present along with notes of spice and a redolent laser of cherry. It compels a taste.
On the palate, the wine explodes with flavor, but the tactile sensation lends this beauty the nimble footed elegance I love. Flavors of wild cherry, fresh leafy tobacco, and dusty minerals coat the palate in both flavor and texture. The sensation is one I love and not one easily replicated. In an age when great Barolo often takes 15-20 years to age properly, this one is miraculously accessible in the wonderful 2008 vintage. What’s more, this one behaved consistently with the sample I tried at the Banville & Jones tasting last year. 94 points. About $75.
|~ Monvigliero comes from the Verduno Commune in Northern Barolo ~|
January 4, 2014