Ever since I’ve known what Brunello is, I’ve been a fan of the wines from Poggio Antico. For decades the estate was helmed by the husband and wife team of Paola Gloder and Alberto Montefiori. I met Paola during my first visit to Tuscany and the friendliness and charm she exhibited cemented my affection for the estate.
At an average elevation of 480 meters above sea level, Poggio Antico’s vineyards are among the highest in the Brunello region. The lofty altitude, combined with the close proximity of the Mediterranean Sea, provides a steady breeze which has many beneficial effects on the vineyards.
Today we’re looking at the estate’s Altero Brunello. Produced along with the estate’s classic white label Brunello, Altero is slightly more modern in style. It’s aged in 500 liter French oak barrels for only 2 years and then spends 2 years in bottle prior to release.
The 2011 Poggio Antico Altero Brunello is an excellent wine. It’s a medium ruby in the glass with violet reflections but don’t be fooled by the lighter appearance. This is a full bodied, elegant red. I decanted the wine for an hour and it was a good idea. Not only was a fine sediment removed, but the texture of the wine improved noticeably.
Aromas comprise crushed wild cherry, hints of smoke, baking spice, tobacco and dark cocoa. It’s aroma really compels a taste! On the palate, the wine is very well balanced and fresh despite the hotter than normal year that 2011 presented. Lively, with cherry fruit glazed in dark chocolate, dusty tannins, pipe tobacco and warmed earth this is delicious without being overbearing. Can easily be cellared for another 5 years with no worries. 93 points. About $60. Find this wine.
It will be interesting to see how the quality and style of Poggio Antico’s wines progresses. The estate was sold in 2017 to a group of Belgian investors. However, there is a good team in place and since 2017 the estate has been practicing organic methods with their production. An application has been made for organic certification.