There are passionate winemakers all over Italy. If there is one thing I have come to realize over the years running this website, is that it is easy, rather than hard, to find genuine, soulful people whose wines mirror their passion and personality. It is my pleasure to shine a light on these producers, large and small, imported and not. Today, we’re spotlighting the recent release of a wine I called “the best mono-varietal Sangiovese you’ve never heard of.” I’ll defer to the eloquence of Leonardo Beconcini to further reflect his thoughts.
“Tradition is the high road that I have followed from the very beginning. In the years that witnessed the overwhelming introduction of the international grape varieties into Tuscany, I made the choice to grow only indigenous local grapes and, in addition, to personally select the genetic material from the old vineyards in San Miniato. That might seem a somewhat extreme project, but I believe that in my work one must not follow fashion, short- or long-term may it be; rather, one must think into the future, even into the far future, since the life of a vineyard is often longer than that of the person who cultivates it.”
The 2012 Pietro Beconcini Reciso is 100% Sangiovese and a deep, bright ruby trending to violet in the glass. Sourced from vineyards that are over 50 years old, this rich, ripe wine displays aromas of crushed wild berries, freshly cut flowers, sweet tobacco and toast. On the palate, the Sangiovese flavors are exuberant with high toned juicy freshness. A full bodied core of wild berry fruit is accented deftly by melted anise, leaf tobacco and dusty, powdery warmed earth. While 2012 wasn’t as highly regarded in Chianti Classico as 2011, I think Beconcini has succeeded in eclipsing the predecessor vintage. This is outstanding. 95 points. Very limited importation. EU readers will have an easier time finding this wine. About $25.
Reciso is fermented with native yeast in lined cement vats where it macerates for five full weeks. Aged for 24 months in large Slavonian Botte and French Tonneaux, it is then refined in bottle for 12-18 months prior to release. Disclosure: This wine was a producer provided sample.