“Se guardo indietro, vedo il futuro.”
Looking back, we see the future. When I first interviewed owner and winemaker Giampaolo Tabarrini we discussed this very quote. One can easily discern the appreciation for family history, for tradition, for authenticity that manifests itself in the modern interpretation of Tabarrini’s wines through Giampaolo’s hands. However now, after years of tasting his wines, I’ve got the unique perspective of drawing on those experiences in anticipating where his wines are headed. And I like the direction.
|~ The Colle alle Macchie Vineyard in November ~|
Tabarrini is unique in Montefalco. Owner Giampaolo is boisterous, passionate and seemingly blessed with limitless energy. He directs this outward to friends and family and inwards to his wines. Unique in that Tabarrini is the only Sagrantino producer to bottle three distinct vineyard designated wines, each with a definitively different terroir; each crafted in the same style in order that the sites differences speak in the glass. If you are fortunate enough to lineup all three wines side by side, I suggest you embrace the chance; it’s a delicious and valuable learning experience. You can read more about Tabarrini’s three vineyards, their wines and the characteristics of each here: My Interview with Giampaolo.
Today we’re checking in on Giampaolo’s admittedly most masculine rendition of Sagrantino; the Colle alle Macchie.
Knowing how this wine was likely to present itself, we decanted the wine for 2 hours. The 2006 Colle Alle Macchie Sagrantino is running in perfect stride since the last time I tasted it.
Huge black fruit and plum aromas leap from the glass and join with fresh leather, pipe tobacco, flowers, herbs, smoke and fennel seed. The barrique is evident, but frames elegantly without detracting. The wine is so complex in its aroma that it almost begs you not to sip.
On the palate, the wine is as big and powerful as you would expect; it’s boisterous without being pretentious and mimmicks Giampaolo’s personality perfectly. There are masses of black fruits that cover your palate. The black fruits are fully ripe and concentrated, yet remain lively, juicy and invigorating. The balance between fruit, acids, and tannins is remarkable given that the tannic structure of the wine is gigantic. Accented by pipe tobacco, gravelly earth, espresso, roasted meat and licorice, this is monumental. Does it need more time? Probably. I would be remiss if I didn’t tell my readers that those preferring a “smoother” wine would be well advised to cellar this 5-8 more years. For those not scared by a monstrous wine, grab a thick ribeye, some lamb or game and dive in. Power to the people! 97 points. About $52 retail. Seek it out.
|~ Powerful, Brawny, Elegant, Complex – Giampaolo in a Glass ~|
Cin Cin amico!
May 15, 2015