~ Roma! Crossing the River Tiber on the way to Castel San’Angelo ~
Roma!
Immersing yourself in this amazing city, once the fountain head of civilization, instantly gives me goosebumps. It’s unlike any other place in the world. Ancient artifacts dot the city. Yet, they are speckled with modern convenience. Roma charms in ways other places can’t.
Earlier this month, my boys and I spent an afternoon and evening savoring the city. The sights were as central as the food and wine.
~ Chestnut street vendors were seemingly on every corner of the city. The smell was amazing and drew you in ~
We started with a long, leisurely lunch. I don’t know why, but nothing feels as Roman to me. The weather was warm enough to eat outside, yet cool enough that the portable heaters felt comfortable. Businessmen and tourists alike scurried through the city, but the restaurants were busy. It was good that we had a reservation.
~ Zucchini Flowers fried the Roman way. Very delicate, stuffed with a tiny bit of cheese and fresh anchovy ~
The boys instantly gravitated to the zucchini flowers, which were offered solo or as part of the fritto misto. Since the latter only included one and we were three, we ordered extra. The platter consisted of fried mozzarella, cauliflower, shrimp, zucchini flowers and strips. All were crispy and seasoned perfectly.
~ The potato croquette (center) was fought over! ~
The next two dishes are Roman classics; Carbonara and Agnello Arrosto. The last time I was in Roma I tried the Amatriciana. Next time it’ll be Cacio e Pepe! If you’ve never had real Roman Carbonara you are missing out. I don’t think I’ve ever had Carbonara anywhere else in the world that rivals the many versions I’ve had in Roma.
~ The two main ingredients in Carbonara are the guanciale and the eggs. I suspect they are better quality in Italy ~
If there’s a downside to Carbonara, and that’s a big “if”, it’s that it can be very rich and filling. Fully aware of this, I decided to order one plate of the lamb and the three of us shared it. This is baby lamb, roasted so tender that it pulls from the bone with only a fork. The rosemary potatoes are buttery and creamy. It’s heaven!
~ This lamb dish is so good, and so unique, that I order it every time I am in Rome ~
Before you start thinking we did all this without wine, let me allay those concerns! As usual, I marvel at the pricing at even the best restaurants.
The 2015 Pieve Santa Restituta Brunello by Angelo Gaja showed incredibly well. Deep crimson in color, the wine looks very youthful. However, in the mouth the tannins seemed almost completely resolved. This was very expressive and approachable. Dark cherry flavors married to leather and strong hints of fennel. The boys easily picked up the fennel as it was that noticeable. Delicious especially with the lamb, but I would be tempted to drink this over the next 3-5 years. 93 points. Find this wine.
~ This was delicious but it surprised me at how approachable it was ~
With lunch behind us, we decided a long walk was in order. My oldest son had done some research and wanted to go into the Castel Sant’Angelo. And I have to say, I’m really glad we did. I had never been inside the Fortress. Not surprisingly, it has a long and complex history. It’s footprint has changed dramatically over the centuries. It’s served as the Papal residence, a hospital, military barracks and fort among other things. And the views from the roof top were astounding. So off to the other side of the Tiber we went…..
~ Castel San’t Angelo by day ~
Although it dominates the Tiber from the outside, the views form the top were more impressive.
~ The Vittorio Emmanuele Monument, which house the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier, from the top of the fort ~
And…
~ The Vatican stands front and center on the Roman landscape from the top of the fort ~
Fully sated, both spiritually, historically and physically, we managed to hail a cab to head back to Fiumicino. Of course, the General Strike made getting out of the city that much more adventurous, but when in Rome, you go with the flow. With the Metro and Buses stopped, cars packed the roads in and out of the city.
Arrivederci Roma!
Hi John:
I’m a long-time lurker/admirer finally compelled to respond due to having just returned from Toscana & Roma myself. Unfortunately, due to poor planning, the Roma marathon, and the Derby delle Capitale, we were unable to get a seat at Armando, Roscioli, and several other classic restaurants in the centro storico. However, I wanted to mention a very positive experience – dinner at Pancrazio near the Campo dei Fiore. Their renditions of the classics (I had Amatriciana and Saltimbocca) were very solid and the wine list was serviceable (if not archival) – we had various bottles of Nobile, the wife’s favorite. But far and away, the attraction was the environment. The basement (you must ask to be seated here) is literally a remaining untouched piece of the Teatro di Pompeo – sitting here was almost a spiritual experience…
I also wanted to mention an exceptional Tuscan winery and winemaker far off the beaten path. Our time was spent with another family and each of our 8-year old children, so most of our adventures involved truffle hunting, donkey petting, or pasta making. But, we did have one opportunity to break away and visit Podere Panta Rei (Terriciola) and the wonderful Alberto Bellini. His “tasting room” includes no new marble, glass, nor steel – it is essentially the toolshed right next to his vines. However, his wines are meticulously crafted gems. The standout is called Centomani (one hundred hands). This is a single vinyard (sloped, south-facing) Sangiovese, destemmed by hand, indigenous yeasts, well-aged in Tonneau. I found it to be everything I enjoy about wine in one bottle. Once the 2019 is bottled and labeled, there will be a case headed my way. Perhaps I’ll send you a bottle – I would be very intrigued to hear your impressions…
Scott,
Thanks for reading and finally joining in the fray – I’m glad you did! Rome is magical, it never runs out of charms. You hit the races, I hit a general strike. Ha! You go with the flow. When in Rome, right? And Armando is small enough and difficult enough to get into when events aren’t going on in the city. I’m making notes though, as I am set to return in October for the Tour.
I will do some digging into Panta Rei though judging by your description, it doesn’t sound like they’ll have a website. Finding those places is fun and I’ll bet that will be a memorable experience – just as my adult sons remarked how cool it was that we tasted in Susanna Soderi’s living room! (Setriolo)
As for Centomani, I’d love that! It would make for an interesting article and I’m always willing to offer some trinkets on the trading block myself…. Thanks again for taking the time to comment – much appreciated.
Salute,
John