Brunello 2018 – Part 3

~ The peaceful quiet of Winter over Castello Banfi ~

The 2018 Brunello di Montalcino vintage is going to be regarded as underrated.  Because of the uneven nature of the weather, the decisions made in the vineyard and the cellar proved critical.  As the previous parts of my coverage bear out, there are wines worth skipping.

But there are also wines worth finding.   Part 2 published before the recent Rustic Tuscany Tour.  During that trip, we drank 2018 Brunello almost exclusively.  The majority of the wines continue to present pretty aromatic noses and fresh, lively red fruit flavors.  They are excellent to drink now.

Conversely, at the Benvenuto Brunello event in November,  in addition to the 2019 wines, there were a handful of 2018 Riserva present as well.  My tastings of those were not nearly as exciting or compelling, especially given the increased prices.  Stick to the annata wines.

I Vini di Brunello – 2018

The Cecchi family has been an icon of Tuscan wine production for decades.  Today, although the fourth generation is alive and well under the direction of Andrea Cecchi, the fifth generation is already involved and being primed for succession.  Fans of these wineries and this family are in good hands.

The 2018 Famiglia Cecchi Brunello is a deep ruby color with a classic fade to orange at the rim of the bowl.  It’s already showing a hint of age in the color and although somewhat surprising, doesn’t seem to translate into the wine.

On the nose, aromas of dark cherry and soft floral notes are prominent.  In the mouth, the wine is juicy and fresh with reduced red fruits and hints of sandalwood.  Pretty notes of mocha dot the back end. Nice, but simple and straightforward.

This is the first wine from the newly acquired property near Castelnuovo dell’Abate.  Back in October, Andrea Cecchi told me the parcel was near Tenuta Fanti.  I can sense the similar terroir.  He also mentioned they will be building reception facilities there and re-vamping the cellars.  This is another property to watch.  It reminds me now of the nascent days when the family acquired Villa Rosa and that is working out exceedingly well.   90 points.  Not yet imported. But a nice value under $40.   Find this wine.

~ The label and just about everything else will be different with 2019. This is a property to watch ~

The Pietranera estate is owned by the Centolani family and consists of approximately 200 hectares; with 42 under vine. Located about 1 mile from the famous Sant’Antimo Abbey, the Centolani’s employ an interesting regimen for aging their Brunello. French oak is used from the Allier forest in 20, 30, 50 and 100 hectoliter sizes. The effect on the wine is one of interesting balance; especially in stronger vintages.

As I wrote in Part 1, the Centolani Family owns three properties: Tenuta Friggiali, Poggiotondo and Pietranera.  The latter is located near Tavernelle and for me, is the best of the three estates.

The 2018 Pietranera Brunello is a deep ruby color.   Aromas on the nose consist of bright berry, dried herbs, hints of worn wood and a slight menthol note.  In the mouth, the wine exudes power; the effect of being on the southwestern side of Montalcino.  Masculine red cherry notes are juicy and lively, but tannic.  This has structure many 2018s do not.  Bright fennel notes marry with toasted spice.  Quite nice, and another good value.  91 points.  Find this wine and Support Tuscan Vines.

~ The Pietranera is a very good effort in 2018 and the best of the three Centolani Estates ~

La Magia is, and has been for a while, on a major roll.   Founded in 1976 by the Schwarz family, the estate consists of  15 hectares that lie on sloping hillsides within view of the famed Sant’Antimo Abbey. Fabian Schwarz runs the estate operations and tends to the vineyards; many of which are 40+ years old. Since 2008 the estate is certified organic.

La Magia has been on my radar for years and their commitment to quality, value and heritage is what made me want to include them on the Rustic Tuscany Tour.

~ Yours truly taking a break to entertain La Magia’s vineyard puppy ~

The 2018 La Magia Ciliegio Brunello is a premium Cru wine.  It’s a single vineyard which hails from one of the oldest parcels on the estate.  It’s exposure and soils are ideal.  Marked by a solitary cherry tree which gives the vineyard its name, the wine is among my favorite Brunello each vintage.

Medium cherry colored, the wine gives off perfumed aromas of fresh flowers, soft sandalwood and crushed cherry tones.   On the palate, the wine is fresh, juicy and lively.  The flavors follow the nose with precision. This is dusty, elegant and really pretty.  93 points.  Find this wine.

~ The only negative with this wine is the creeping price. It’s getting up there ~

La Magia will be the subject of a Feature Article in the near future.  While their Brunello are covered here, their Rosso and IGT will be profiled separately.  We tried the IGT at the winery back in October and for the price – I believe it was all of $9 Euro – it’s a wine very tempting to buy by the case.

~ The solitary cherry tree that gives Ciliegio it’s name, stands as a sentinel over the vineyard ~

Castello Banfi dominates the southern slopes of Montalcino; not simply in stature but as an oasis in a field of oases.  It’s a wine first and food destination; but it’s more than that.  It’s a gorgeous agriturismo serving wares of their own land.  It boasts two restaurants including a Michelin star and the spa is well, left with no expense spared.  Quality and attention to detail at all points and that extends to the wines.

The 2018 Castello Banfi Poggio alle Mura Brunello runs contrary to many of its contemporary 2018s. Although it is juicy and fresh, it is massive.  It’s masculine, with more structure than many.  I always wonder if this is the direct result of the clonal project that Banfi undertook in the mid 1990s.  The aim there was to match soil, elevation and exposure to the most suitable clone of Sangiovese.  This Cru seems to mirror that.

Deep ruby in the glass, this boasts almost garnet highlights.  Dark cherry, walnut, coffee and flowers on the noses are intriguing.  On the palate, the dark crushed cherry flavors sit center stage and are wrapped by coffee grind, toasted spice and large scaled but silky tannins.  It’s delicious with pan seared filets. 94 points.  Shop around, price varies widely.   Find this wine.

~ The Poggio alle Mura runs a bit contrary to many other 2018s. ~

Brunello always demands food.  And at Tuscan Vines, we demand good and proper food!  As a result, I made a glorius pot of my Bolognese and that was the perfect foil for a few of these Brunello.

~ Nice and thick! This simmered slowly for over 8 hours. I added no water; only some tomato juice and the soaking liquid from the porcini ~

Back on the 2022 Rustic Tuscany Tour, we stopped at one of my favorite wineries;  Il Palazzone.  We were served the 2018 Brunello, among others and looking back, it had only been bottled about 3 months. As a result, and perhaps not surprisingly, the wine didn’t show as well as it typically does.  To me, this is also one of the main problems with Benvenuto Brunello being in November, but that’s another discussion.  Anyway, the latest tasting was much, much better.

The 2018 Il Palazzone Brunello is a light cherry red color in the glass.  The one thing that hasn’t changed from 2022 is the aromatic and beautiful nose.  Crushed red fruits, flowers, soft spices and sandalwood are notable.  On the palate, this is medium bodied, fresh and juicy.  Lively crushed berry fruit are ripe, sweet and mouthwatering. The tannins are mainly absent but turn powdery on the finish. This has improved so much since 2022.  A very elegant, refined style.  92 points.  Find this wine.

~ This wine has clearly benefited from time in the bottle ~

The next wine was a stop on the 2023 Rustic Tuscany Tour and we will be returning this year.  The story of Donatella Cinelli Colombini is a compelling one.   That yarn doesn’t get any less interesting when you’re walking the vineyards or tasting in the winery.  It’s a special place to be and the wines hold up their end of the bargain.

The 2018 Donatella Cinelli Colombini Brunello Prime Donne is always an excellent red.  It has never failed to impress and this vintage is no different.  A classic ruby color that fades gently to iodine at the rim, the wine’s aromas are effusive.  Cherry, toasted spice, tobacco and new leather are very attractive.  In the mouth, this is very concentrated; tannic and masculine.  The flavors are ripe and very generous and verge ever so slightly on being over done.  Alongside the Il Palazzone above, that comparison was even more stark.  Reserve this one for a big steak and drink over the next 5 years.  93 points.  Find this wine.

~ This wine displays a masculinity that not too many wines from this vintage possess ~

I last checked in on the next wine during the 2016 vintage.  It’s always well crafted, it’s always masculine. The current vintage is no exception. In fact, in that sense, it has exceeded my expectations. The 2018 Tenute Silvio Nardi Manachiara is a deep garnet in the glass – the first pour was so tight that I subsequently decanted the wine.

In the decanter it appears practically black.  And that portends the mystery and masculinity of this Brunello. Flavors of black cherry, iron and beaten leather make for an interesting mix and follow aromas of black cherry, dark cocoa and coffee.  Large scaled tannins require meat – this was even more powerful than the lovely pork chop below could handle.  A super effort in the vintage.  93 points. Find this wine.

~ Another beast for the vintage ~

And with fine wines we must eat.  I normally like to quickly grill thick cut pork chops, but at Castello South, no such ability exists.  It was a quick sear in butter and EVOO and then into the oven it went.  Served over garlic sauteed rainbow chard.  Perfection!

~ A wonderful Berkshire Chop helped tame the Manachiara, but it could have gone further ~

Five hectares.  That’s all it takes to make magic.  Even before my hilarious adventure in finding this wonderful winery, I’d known Francesco’s dedication to quality for years.  And every time I have a Baricci wine, my impressions are borne out.  Baricci is simply the barometer for Montosoli.

The 2018 Baricci Brunello is absolutely gorgeous. It’s elegant frame supports a medium to medium plus body but the fruit is so pristine, so graceful, so ripe and sweet – it is simply phenomenal.  Flowers, toasted spices, crushed berry and sweet fennel on the nose give way to juicy, lively red berry flavors accented with cake spices and a powdery, minerality.  It’s hard to believe this is a 2018.  It is simply nailed.  95 points.  Find this wine.

~ Baricci is the Barometer for Montosoli ~

Fossacolle is a tiny, tiny estate near Tavernelle.  Since 1997, the family have tended their small 4 hectare farm in southern Tuscany and have been crafting wonderful, typically masculine wines.  I really enjoyed their 2017, which was rather large scaled in the vintage.  Their newest release has been crafted in a style suggested by the vintage and that goes to the attentiveness of the winemaking team.

The 2018 Fossacolle Brunello is a medium ruby color with a faint fade to amber at the rim of the glass.  It’s a classic color and has classic aromas of tobacco, flowers, spices and bright cherry tones.  Fresh and lively in the mouth, the elegance is notable compared to the brawn of past vintages. The nature of the vintage was handled well.  Bright cherry flavors are juicy and fresh with new leather and toasted spices also present. The tannins are smooth and very well integrated. Drinks so well now.  I really love the style.  93 points.  Find this wine & Support Tuscan Vines.

~ The Fossacolle is a delicious example of getting the vintage character correctly reflected ~

Col d’Orcia is one of the oldest and largest producers in Montalcino.   Perched on a series of hills overlooking the Orcia river, this certified organic producer crafts elegant Sangiovese.  The estate’s modern-day lineage goes back to at least 1890, when records show the Franceschi family of Florence purchased the property, then known as Fattoria di Sant’Angelo in Colle.   In 1973,  the estate was sold to the Cinzano family who revitalized and expanded the property.

The 2018 Col d’Orcia Brunello is a beautiful medium ruby color in the glass.  The nose is interesting with ripe cherry, sandalwood and a sort of alkaline/minerality note.   Ripe on the palate, the character of the vintage comes through, especially in this southern part of the zone.  Juicy, with cherry, leaf tobacco and hints of green herb.  Solid, if not distinctive.  90 points.  Find this wine.

~ The Col d’Orcia is ripe and forward in 2018 ~

That will put a wrap on this report.  The 2018s are still flooding most markets and if you’ve been following along with this coverage, you recognize that they are mostly attractive wines that drink well right now.  They are fresh, juicy and lively and in this vintage, are probably a bit more versatile in terms of pairing with food than Brunello otherwise may generally be.

I have a few more reviews coming for Newsletter Subscribers, so stay tuned.  Salute!