I first taste the Fuligni Brunello 2012 for my Annual Report on that vintage. At the time, I called it “one of the best wines of the vintage”. Recently I decided to check in on this masterful wine and it continues to show the power and grace that impressed me.
The Fuligni Estate spreads over approximately one hundred hectares of land on the eastern side of Montalcino. The vines, which extend over fourteen hectares, are primarily located at altitudes varying from 380 to 450 meters above sea level. Oddly, despite being in one of the older sections of the DOCG zone, Fuligni’s vines average just 15 years of age. As a result, it’s safe to expect more complex wines will be coming our way. This is especially true for the block of vineyard where the “Mother Vines” are close to 40 years old.
The stability at Fuligni is noteworthy. Although Maria Fuligni now leads the estate, the family has had a continual relationship with consulting winemaker Paolo Vagaggini. In fact, this relationship extends to the 1960s when Paolo’s father Francesco.
The ancient Fuligni Cellars are directly below the Palazzo di Montalcino; a former home inhabited by the Medici. Dating to the 16th century, the cellars are actually older than the building overhead which was once occupied by a Spanish Princess guest of the Medici. Here Brunello ages gracefully in Slavonian Botte of 200 and 300 hectoliters.
The 2012 Fuligni Brunello may be the best wine from the vintage. It is certainly the best 2012 I’ve tasted. A brilliant violet in the glass, the wine exudes aromas of freshly cut roses, crushed wild cherry, roasted chestnut and toasted spices. It’s so alluring. On the palate, the wine is graceful and powerful at once. Loads of wild cherry are sapid and mouthwatering. Powdery, mineral driven tannins are smooth and caressing. Pipe tobacco, dried porcini and Tuscan herbs complete the flavor profile. This is just a compelling wine and the perfect illustration of the greatness of Sangiovese. 98 points. Find this wine.
The 2012 is vinified in large stainless steel tanks and then aged for 2-3 years in wood depending upon the vintage. Aging takes place in combination of Slavonian Botte and medium size tonneaux.