There’s been quite a bit of chatter lately surrounding the fate of the 2013 Brunello. Are they ready now? Will they reward further cellaring? Will they come around?
When I covered the vintage upon release in my Annual Coverage, I called the wines a “return to classicism”. They were rather austere upon release and at the time I wrote the following:
“Generally, the 2013 Brunello as a whole are a bit austere, especially compared to the recent warmer years of 2011 and 2012. They will reward 3-5 more years of aging and I anticipate they’ll easily bring wonderful drinking and personalities into their 10th birthdays. Of course, these are generalizations but I’m pretty comfortable making both of those statements.”
It’s been 3 years since I made that prediction and while they’re not quite 10 years of age, it looks like solid prognostication. Recently I re-visited the Il Marroneto and acquitted itself with charm and personality.
The Il Marroneto Estate sits in the northern part of the Brunello zone not far from the walls of Montalcino. At elevations of 350 to 400 meters above sea level, Il Marroneto’s vineyards are some of the highest in the DOCG. As of 1979, there were just over 2/3 of an acre under vine. Alessandro Mori expanded this by 2 more acres in 1984.
The 2013 Il Marroneto Brunello is a shimmering violet in the glass clear to the rim. Like it’s 2015 sibling, it benefits from an hour in a decanter. Fresh flowers, crushed cherry and leaf tobacco mark the nose. On the palate, the wine is concentrated and elegant. The ripe core of dusty wild berry is impressive, fresh and long. Tobacco and fennel notes mark the finish. They are surely coming around. 94 points. Find this wine.
The 2016 version of this wine will be featured in my upcoming annual Brunello coverage, so stay tuned.