The Il Marroneto farm was purchased by family patriarch Giuseppe Mori in 1974.  His son Alessandro is in charge of the winemaking reins and has elevated the estate to revered levels.  Using traditional methods focusing on natural, wild yeasts, large botte of French and Slavonian oak and long macerations, Mori creates authentic Brunello.

I recently had the pleasure of tasting an outstanding rendition of the estate’s flagship Brunello; the 2007 Madonna della Grazie. The wine is aged 41 months in large cask, finished in bottle for 10 further months and then released at 5 years of age.  Although it is not designated as such, it is essentially a Riserva bottling.  I decanted the wine for about 45 minutes prior to dinner.  

The wine is dark, blackish red. Almost impenetrable in the decanter.  In the glass, those hues persist and the aromas are tight and restrained. There’s delicate flowers and some sage to go along with freshly crushed red fruits.  These aromas appear on the palate and accent the core of ripe, almost savory cherry fruit.  However, this wine is reserved. It seems unwilling, at the moment, to express itself.  The tannins are substantial and the acids are in balance with the fruit.  This wine seems atypical of the 2007 vintage which I have found open, forward and charming. This reminds me more of a structured 2004 and needs further cellar time. 

With my recent recipe of Coniglio Brasato, the exterior of this wine softened a bit – but give thanks to Madonna, there is more lurking underneath here.  I’ll revisit this wine again in 10 years time.  Bury it if you find some, and I think your patience will be rewarded.

It is hard to provide a score for a wine in this stage. Working under the presumption that I believe this wine will show very well in the future, I’ll assign a range of 93-96 points and be patient.  About $75. 

~ The slumbering lady:  Madonna della Grazie ~


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