~ The terroir in the vineyards on Argentiera’s Estate lend minerality to many of the property’s wines ~
It’s best almost 2 years since I posited that Vermentino would become Italy’s next big white wine. Since that time, I’ve tasted and written about many wonderful examples and nothing has changed my mind. Vermentino is here to stay and we’re better off for it.
Vermentino has its origins in the Italian provinces of Liguria and Sardinia, yet nowhere does excel more than in the Tuscan region of Maremma. Producers have noticed and as a result, though many are acquiring land to chase dreams of creating the next Sassicaia, they are also focusing on crafting high quality Vermentino.
~ Azienda Muschi Italy lies in the DOC of Montecucco. This article features their wonderful Vermentino ~
It was just last week that I profiled the newest Rosso from Argentiera. Today, the latest vintage of their Vermentino is included in this article. The Poggio Ai Ginepri vineyard lies only 1 kilometer from the sea at 80 meters above sea level. As a result, the soil found there is predominantly sandy. While the earth retains heat, it also allows for exceptional drainage. Additionally, Mediterranean breezes provide ventilation and cool the vines.
~ Poggio Ai Ginepri is vinified in stainless steel tanks ~
The 2019 Argentiera Vermentino Poggio Ai Ginepri is vinified solely in stainless steel. The wine is 90% Vermentino and 10% Sauvignon Blanc. After aging for a period of time on the fine lees, the wines are assembled and then bottled. Freshness is the key, but there is no lack of body here.
Almost colorless, the wine exudes wonderful aromatics of white peaches, pineapple and lemon zest. On the palate, this retains crisp flavors of white peaches and lemon grass. Notes of salinity are perceptible as is an oily note. Medium bodied, this finishes clean and bright. Drinks well as an apperitivo or with lighter shellfish and pasta dishes. 87 points. Find this wine.
~ The 2019 Poggio ai Ginepri is 90% Vermentino and 10% Sauvignon Blanc ~
This article not only features newly released Vermentino, but also an early introduction to a new winery: Muschi Alti. Located in the Montecucco DOC, Muschi Alti was founded in 1997 by the Ottonelli family and today is run by brothers Silvestro and Alberto. Vineyard plots were analyzed and re-planted in 1998 and in 20o2 their first wine (a Montecucco Rosso) was released. The winery produces about 20,000 bottles of wine per year from Sangiovese, Cabernet, Merlot, Syrah, Vermentino and Alicante. As an aside, I have begun tasting the range of the estate’s reds. I will report on them separately.
~ Silvestro and Alberto Ottonelli ~
The 2018 Muschi Alti Orbaco is 100% Vermentino and absolutely delicious. A pale straw color, the aromas are intense. White flowers, pineapple and lemon notes are fresh and captivating. On the palate, the flavors echo the aromas with incredible freshness and minerality. The undercurrent of brisk salinity adds further appeal. Medium bodied with a crisp palate this is wonderful on its own but excelled with raw oysters and cacio e pepe. Imported to Canada and the EU. Not yet available in the US. 91 points. Find this wine.
~ Orbaco is labeled as an IGT because of the personal creative preference of the winemaker ~
Stay tuned for a feature article on Muschi Alti. In the meantime, enjoy these lovely Vermentino and the last few days of Summer!
Salute!
Unfortunately I am not a big fan of Tuscan whites….maybe some very good Vernaccia di San Gimignano can make me change the mind. I am probably spoiled of Friuli, Marche, Veneto, Alto Adige whites…??✌️
Well, I think maybe you are biased. However, I will also say that here in the US at least, we don’t see nearly the scope of whites from the regions you mention that you would find in Italy. We get lots of white plonk but it’s just that. Serious whites are few and far between. I find Vernaccia and Vermentino to be my favorites (and occasionally Frascati) but I have no interest in things like Sauvignon Blanc or Chardonnay from Italy. The one Frascati i do love is Luna Mater. And of course there are Soave’s I enjoy too. (Pieropan, Gini, etc.)
John,
Nice article. How do we get our hands on the Orbaco? I know you are going to say Muschi is not far from Castiglione D’Orcia and it isn’t, but cant get there in the near future. I look forward to the next article on Muschi. Must admit I have not heard of them but will contact them for a visit when we can get back into Italy.
I am getting close to the Muschi article on his reds. I’m hoping this week. It’s taking longer than I would have liked. I don’t think Muschi has “online retail” per se, but I think if you email Alberto he’ll accommodate. That’s the only way I know to suggest unless you find it at an Italian Enoteca Online. Muschi doesn’t have a US Importer at the moment.