Poggio Antico sits on the main road from Sant’Angelo Scalo to Montalcino. It boasts some of the highest vineyards in the area and enjoys a unique enclave of sorts just south of town. The estate is broken into 4 separate vineyard plots surrounded by olive groves and woods. It has been one of my favorite properties for a long time. In total, 35 hectares are under vine, approximately 32 of which are devoted to Sangiovese.
This past March, I re-visited the property with my boys and we were all equally impressed. The investments the new management team are making in the vineyards and winery are notable. As a result of these initiatives, the winery’s electrical and water needs will be self-sustaining.
This article relates two anecdotes. Not only will it provide a review of Poggio Antico’s Madre, but it will offer a glimpse of what provenance, storage and travel can impart to a wine. During my March visit, one of the wines we tasted was the 2017 Madre. Below is my note at that tasting.
Poggio Antico Madre Tasting (3/7/23)
Deep garnet in color. This is a 50/50 blend of Cabernet and Sangiovese Grosso. Lots of Sangiovese character on the nose. But the black plum flavors come through. Very well balanced. Lots of black plums and tobacco. This is chewy and tannic. Could use plenty of cellar time to smooth out.
As you can see from the note above, the bottle of 2017 Madre tasted at the property was still young and in need of cellaring. Such is the joy of perfect provenance and a wine that has never left the property’s cellar. Contrast that with the note below.
Recently, we enjoyed the 2017 Poggio Antico Madre at the wonderful Zero Otto Nove in the Bronx. I have known the owner for years and he’s a wine guy. He takes wine as serious as he takes his cooking. He has proper storage and often holds wine for a few years before listing it; the idea being that the wine will be in a more enjoyable state when ordered.
This was also a dark garnet in the glass but displayed a copper rim at the bowl that the wine in Montalcino didn’t offer. On the nose, this is all Sangiovese. So interesting. Loads of tobacco, black cherry and chocolate are easily ascertained. On the palate, this is smooth and balanced. The black plum flavors support the cherry, tobacco and stone flavors which makes the whole effort that much more complex. There is no trace of the hot vintage here. So, if you find this wine locally, give a try right away. If you buy it from the winery, or have carried it home, hold it for a few more years and this is what it will become. I am impressed. At under $45, it’s a tremendous value. 94 points. Find this wine.