~ The Abbey at Sant’Antimo sits on the road to Scopone ~
The history of Scopone begins in the 19th century when sharecroppers owned the tiny estate. During the Second World War, Scopone was used as a refuge for evacuees fleeing the melee. After the war, the intermittent period saw the estate change hands several times and it fell into disrepair.
In 1992, the Genazzani family acquired the farmhouse and its 40 hectares of property. Close family friend, none other than Giacomo Tachis, was so impressed with the land that he suggested they make Brunello. The family heeded his advice and began revitalizing the vineyards. Their first vintage released was the wonderful 1997. Inextricably tied to the land, the estate takes its name from the large Scopi bushes that dot the property.
~ Scopone’s vineyard span about 11 hectares but only 3 are devoted to Brunello ~
The Genazzani’s have retained seasoned Enologist, Ezio Rivella, as consulting winemaker. Rivella was formerly the Chief Winemaker for Castello Banfi and was also instrumental in counseling Ferenc Mate when he acquired his vineyards. He has done an admirable job elevating the wines from this small, family estate.
The revitalization of the property didn’t end with the vineyards. Concurrently, the family also built a new cellar which sits mostly below grade. New stainless steel tanks were purchased as well as French barrique and Slavonian botte. The family is well positioned to succeed and the new cellar is a vanguard for small to medium wineries in Montalcino.
~ Tessie Genazzani is intimately involved with the winemaking process ~
Today we’re looking at the latest release from the winery.
The 2015 Scopone Brunello is a deep, dark ruby color with violet highlights. This is a serious, meaty Brunello. Hearty aromas of grilled meat, anise, crushed black fruits and sweet pipe tobacco are notable. This is very expressive given its young age. On the palate, the wine is filled with black cherry flavors along with toasted spices, tobacco leaf and espresso grinds. The 2015 was vinified partly in stainless steel and partly in used barrique. Subsequently, barrel aging included barrique and Slavonian botte. This is drinking very well now, but will improve as the notable tannins begin to soften. 93 points and a fairly nice value under $45. Find this wine.
~ The 2015 Scopone is excellent and drinking very well right now ~
Many more of these tiny producers are starting to find importation both outside of Italy and into the US. That’s a good thing as many “longer tenured” properties are beginning to raise prices at an alarming rate.
Salute!
Thanks for scouting new talent in Montalcino. I bought the just released 2016 Ciacci annata and Pianrosso yesterday and was pleased they didn’t raise prices since the 2015 vintage. The same, however, cannot be said about Gianni Brunelli who went up $15 and sold out rather quickly on account of the 100-point WA review.
Thanks Paul. In doing what I do I never begrudge people for raising prices but some of these wines, and yes those that received 100 point scores, have gone up astronomically. The special Biondi Santi Riserva at something like $500 is a joke. Il Marroneto’s increase on the Madonna delle Grazie is ridiculous. What I also lament is the Napaesque debut prices for some of these new Cru wines. Cru’s are important and fun but to debut a Brunello at $130 or $150 per bottle? From there where does it go? As a writer it’s leaving a bad taste in my mouth and so I’ll cherish the estates that hold the line. And, thankfully, there are dozens making excellent wine at very fair prices.
Well said! I am willing to try the Crus but it’s pricey like you said; curiosity-driven more than just because the guy’s Arabian stallions poop in the vineyard while he engages in new agey pseudoscience but yeah, Giodo will probably cost more than the steady $140 this year. Here’s to the sub $50s and $70s!
Giodo is another one. What rubs me the wrong way about them is, when it was time to review the 2014, they willingly sent me samples. Now? They’re nowhere to be found. Whatever….. Fanti Vallochio is killer wine and about $45 here. Castello Banfi is releasing a new wine in 2016 that’s a single vineyard. Only about $55. But honestly, Lisini, Argiano, Altesino, Poggio Antico, Talenti, Il Poggione, Castello Banfi and so many others are readily affordable. And, if you use the link to Enoteca di Piazza, you’ll get impeccable provenance, super wide variety and save 10% using my coupon code. Reliable and honest. I just bought a case of 2016s.
Those are all staples (most of the list you gave) in my cellar since the 2013 vintage, and when I got back into collecting. Been stacking a few 2015s and picked up some 2016 Barolo, but I am more singularly focused on the 2016 Brunello, especially the ones under $60. My only concern with ordering from Italy is the intense heat here in California, and this year is shaping to be a drought-driven roaster. How long does it take to reach you, I know you’re out east?I guess we can be thankful wine does not ship here via the Suez.
EdP usually arrives 7-10 days after ordering. Honestly, I try not to order during the summer, which is why I just placed my most recent order. Before that, it was 2015s in the Fall/Early Winter. This was all 2016. Your approach is good. Plus, you sprinkle in a few specialty items like Il Palazzone, maybe Casanova or Romitorio. Terralsole. As I said, there are soooo many wonderful producers. I’ve lost count but it’s 220+ nowadays. I now Erich (below actually) is in Paso and has successfully ordered from Enoteca di Piazza a few times.
I am with you John. Any wine that skyrocketed in price I am not buying. Also the crus that are so expensive I am walking away from. Like you I love Talenti wines. However the price of the Piero is very off putting. I agree Banfi is to me a leader. I will use EdP prices for this but only a $25 difference between three great wines. Brunello has fought hard to get in a wonderful place and I hate to see them lose it like many other areas have done
Erich, I hear you! I think there are still enough excellent producers out there that we don’t need to worry yet. When I’d really get concerned is if the Cru wines start outshining the base Brunello. Not because of the merits of the Cru, but because producers begin ignoring their base just to get higher pricing. Remember, a lot of these Crus are not single vineyard wines – just different selections. San Polo’s Podernove is one. The 2015 was killer but expensive. But I tasted that at Benvenuto so at least I knew what I was getting. But it wasn’t too many vintages ago where Casanova di Neri Tenuta Nuova was $49. Now it’s $95. Tenuta Fanti, Castello Banfi, Caprili and Talenti make great “normal” Brunello for under $40 and $50.
Erich, Paul, John
I echo your sentiments on the CRUs. Some like the Fanti Vallochio are wonderful and always find a way into my cellar. I have the 2006 and 2008 Madonna delle Grazie and they are wonderful wines that I got at a very reasonable price right from EdP. While I would spend extra for them as they are that nice I will not spend even close to the asking price today. I paid the extra and bought the 2015 Ciacci Pianrosso but I do feel the wine is worth it. There are so many nice Brunellos in the 40 to 60 EURO range and even some that you can justify up to 70 but much beyond that is hard to justify. Would I spend $120 for x CRU when I can enjoy 3 bottles of the Fanti Vallochio? No.
John listed some great bottles in the $0 to $50 range, I would add Capanna, Mate, Lisini, Campogiovanni and La Serena. Some many reasonably priced wonderful wines available.
Yep, right in Joe! Right as rain.