~ Andrea Cecchi sits in the reception area of his Maremma winery Val delle Rose. Tenuta Alzatura is the family’s property in Montefalco. ~
The Cecchi family has been synonymous with quality Tuscan wine for generations. However, it wasn’t until the late 1990s that the family broadened their footprint and expanded their drive for excellence to Umbria.
Tenuta Alzatura was acquired by the Cecchi’s in 1998. Like many great relationships between grape vine and terroir, Sagrantino finds a home in Montefalco unlike anywhere else in the world. The Cecchi’s farm 30 hectares of vineyards at Tenuta Alzatura divided into 3 distinct parcels where Sagrantino flourishes. After decades of cultivating grapes in Tuscany, I asked Andrea Cecchi why he decided to begin growing Sagrantino.
“Giovanni, I loved the challenge because the Sagrantino grape is not one of the easiest to cultivate. It demands a fertile terrain with good skeletal soils. The flowering phase is the most difficult and delicate part to manage. The vines have a tendency to get jumbled and then the plant becomes a perfect site for parasites and fungal disease. For this reason, the shoots must have ample air circulation. That is the key. Once the integrity of the plant has been maintained, the Sagrantino grape gives great satisfaction with its incomparable polyphenolic composition. But as always, it starts with the plants!”
~ An aerial view of the vineyards of Tenuta Alzatura – (courtesy of Volio Imports) ~
I last checked in on Tenuta Alzatura as part of my Sagrantino Tasting Report published in 2018. Patience is required of Sagrantino. It is not a variety to be trifled with or taken lightly. It is a winter wine meant for grilled steaks, osso bucco, short ribs or the heartiest risotto. Invariably, decanting is required for both aeration and clarity. Feel and feed the beast!
The 2012 Tenuta Alzatura Montefalco Sagrantino is an absolute beast of a wine. But, it is an elegant beast. What do I mean by that? Many Sagrantino are simply unapproachable in their youth. Buy them and bury them. However, this wine has only recently been released. It has been cellared for 4+ years before hitting the market and that illustrates the commitment the Cecchi’s have made to this wine.
Deep crimson in the glass, this bottle was actually Coravined about 3 months ago during my lunch with Giulia Cecchi. Since that time I’ve had it cellared and so I decanted it for 90 minutes before this tasting.
The aromas from the glass are persistent and obvious. Deep red plum and cherry notes are accented by toasted spices, roasted coffee and cured meats. With additional air time, there are floral accents to be noted. On the palate, yes, the wine is massive. A core of black cherry fruit cascades in waves across your palate leaving roasted meat, coffee and fennel notes in its wake. This is polished and juicy. Although the tannins are significant, they are dusty and well balanced by fruit and acidity. After vinification in stainless steel, the wine is aged for 16 months in barrique and 8 months minimum in bottle before release. 93 points and a wonderful value under $30. Find this wine.
~ A gorgeous color on this young Sagrantino. We served the wine with grilled Ribeye steaks and mushroom risotto ~
In the coming weeks, the 2013 version of this wine will be released. Stay tuned! If you want to experience Sagrantino that has been “softened” slightly, look for its younger brother Montefalco Rosso which is generally 70% Sangiovese and 30% Sagrantino. There can also be other aproved grapes in the blend which comprise the 30%.
Salute!
So……my wife and I are eternal optimists and are thinking of a trip to Italy in the fall (how realistic is this? who knows, but it’s fun to think and dream). We’d like to visit a part of Italy we’ve never seen so we are thinking of Umbria. Question for Mr. Fodera, what wineries in Montefalco would be particularly interesting to visit?
Obviously only the slightest possible relationship to the post above, hope that’s ok.
Hi Steve – good to chat! I’ve been around to a few corners of Umbria and if you’ve never been at all, you’re in for a treat! There are so many wonderful spots. First, I’d make a trek to Castiglione del Lago. A great town. Very small, but with wonderful shops, beautiful views and a few excellent restaurants. Secondly, Assisi was very interesting and a really good workout! The only town in Italy where I actually walked uphill to get into it and uphill to leave! Though I’m still not sure how that happened. Perugia is also a really nice spot, though more a modern city feel. (think the new part of Siena) But to your original question….
I think Tabarrini is a must stop. Too bad you were not on my Zoom call with the winemaker a few weeks back. They have gorgeous, new reception facilities both inside and out and a relatively new and wifi connected winery. Giampaolo’s wines are amazing at every level. Another I’d recommend is Perticaia – much smaller but excellent wines. They share consultants with Tabarrini. I also think that Antonelli is worth a visit simply because of how great Filippo is. Very honest, gentle, humble man and a great winemaker. To go old school stripped down, Paolo Bea would also be another excellent option. Though that may be harder to arrange and be warned, the wines are expensive. I can put you in touch directly with Tabarrini if you are able to make it happen. As you say, I think it unlikely as well. J
Thanks John for your insight. I’d like to think travel in the fall is possible…….but……..every positive covid-related expectation I’ve had in the past year has proven to be over optimistic, so who knows. At least it’s fun to plan.
Thanks again
Keep on planning! As we type, Tuscany has gone from orange to red again and looms of a nationwide 3 week lockdown I’m told. Grrrrrr……
John, did you see this from the New York Times? Good article I thought.
https://www.nytimes.com/2021/01/04/world/europe/italy-chianti-coronavirus.html?searchResultPosition=1
I think there are a number of folks in Castellina who figured out how to make it thru one ‘down’ summer, but I worry about them making it thru two. And as always I advocate sending an email to your favorite producer or two or five and ordering some wine directly.
Thanks for that link. Castellina is like a home for me and I know where every one of those places are from the pictures. Shipping is more affordable than many think because of the circumstances. I do advocate it and again, thanks for the link.
John, Steve
As we know it is very important to help our favorite producers, especially the small wines who rely heavily on the shops and trattoria for their sales. The price per bottle for shipping is very affordable for the product you are getting in return. Also ordering from your favorite producers often gives you the opportunity to try different wines or vintages that are not readily available.
Steve, I addition to the great towns / cities of Umbria that John mentioned I have also very much enjoyed Spello, Spoleto, Montefalco, Gubbio, Passignano sul Trasimeno (on the lake) and of course Orvieto on many occasions.
Good thoughts Joe. Vino Nobile Part 1 publishes Monday!
Thanks Joe for you info and John I saw your Twitter note about direct sale vino and appreciate the extra ‘push’.
Thanks for the reminder!
Hi John,
Nice article. Coincidentally, I also just purchased a sagrantino 2012 that has only just been released – so same philosophy applies. It’s the sagrantino from Agri Segretum, but their production of this is minute, barely exceeding the levels of experimentation (app. 700 bottles).
Just a geeky addition: I think you have mixed up the % levels of montefalco rosso – or I misinterpreted your text, that is also possible 🙂 . I always understood montefalco rosso to be a red wine based on a majority of sangiovese (50%-70%) and not sagrantino. Sagrantino is added in minor amounts (10%-30%), and other varietals (indigenous or international) then can complete the blend.
Best regards,
Steven – you are right in the blending and yes, that is poorly worded. I have fixed it now.