Years ago, when I first developed an interest in wine, a retailer friend of mine introduced me to a wine I wasn’t familiar with: Vino Nobile di Montepulciano. The Noble Wine of Montepulciano.
Montepulciano, beacause of it’s hilltop neighbor Montalcino, is rightly or wrongly, often compared to Brunello. In fact, that’s how the retailer introduced the wine to me: “This is Brunello’s Step Brother”…..
That was almost 25 years ago and even after all that time, it’s still the perception I have of the wines coming from this appellation. They are often very good Sangiovese. But they rarely, if ever, reach greatness. They’re often affordable, especially relative to most Brunello, but they also don’t offer the intensity or complexity of most Brunello.
Today’s article is one case in point. Tenuta il Faggeto is a tiny estate on the eastern side of Montepulciano whose 6 hectares of vineyards gently slope down toward Lago di Trasimeno. The estate is known for it’s horse farming as well as it’s wine and legend says that it’s called the “Devil’s Stone” because Lucifer himself made the area rocks harder in an effort to hinder the building of a nearby Basilica.
The 2009 Tenuta il Faggeto Vino Nobile is a brightly colored ruby to violet wine with a medium deep color. On the nose, the wine offers up ample aromas of dried cherry, some cedary spice, and dried herbs. Pleasing, but simple enough and stopping short of robust. On the palate, the wine is fresher, with a solid core of zippy cherry fruit with some dust and slightl earth notes. It’s peppery, but doesn’t quite display the richness and ripeness notable for the vintage. The balance is there and while this wine is nice, it’s not something I would seek out in quantity. 87 points, about $22.
|~ Pietra del Diavolo: “The Devil’s Stone” from Tenuta il Faggeto ~