Three Brunello

~ Brunello is home in Montalcino ~

Brunello is King in Montalcino.  There is no disputing that.  And although the DOCG has its quirks like any other area, one thing the region does very well is offer wines that express many different styles.  There are also wines to be found at many compelling, annnnnd, not so compelling, price points.

Recently, I’ve had the opportunity to experience three very different examples of Brunello.  And they were all enjoyed in uniquely different environments.  The first, was an aged gem from the cellar by Cerbaiona.

Cerbaiona is not open for visits or tours.  But besides the wine, that’s not what impresses me here.  Journalists are permitted to taste at the property, if they agree to the following, which I have excerpted.

~ A clay motif of the Cerbaiona label hangs in their Cantina ~

“I kindly request that journalists and critics who taste wines with me at Cerbaiona refrain from using scores in reviewing and expressing their opinions about the wines.

It is nearly unbelievable that a numerical score is the single most used descriptor found in wine reviews; that people actually refer to a wine, for example, as “a 97 point wine”. Yet the meaning of these numbers – what the number actually refers to – is completely vague and imprecise.

I’ve never met a grower or winemaker who uses scores to conduct her work. Valuations and descriptions, of course, but a 100 point system? Not.  The greatest use of these scores, obviously, is for marketing purposes which benefit those selling wines and increases the influence of those writing about them. This is a very unhealthy and misleading situation.

A wine should instill wonder and curiosity – and remain free of hubris.”   …Matteo Fioretti

~ Everything about Cerbaiona is small, from production to facilities and vineyards ~

Cerbaiona sits on only 4 hectares and was originally a country manor house used for vacations.  Sangiovese is the focus and although there is a tiny parcel of Merlot, the average production of 8,000 bottles is Brunello and Rosso di Montalcino.

The 2001 Cerbaiona Brunello was enjoyed at dinner with friends Anatoli Levine and Giacomo Bartolommei after the Benvenuto Brunello tasting.  Giacomo chose the wine, and coming from his experience, I was not about to argue.  He said frankly, for a wine of this age, the price cannot be beaten. The new releases in Montalcino cost as much.  Indeed, we were at a wine friendly place where I know the owner. When he buys wine for his cellar, he puts it away and lists it when he wants.  If that’s 5-10 years later, so be it. But he prices based upon what he paid. Not the current market.

What can I say?  Giacomo was right. Anatoli will attest.  This had so much going on. Look at the color! We decanted for sediment but there was not a lot.  The nose bounced between cured meats, balsamic notes, soft leather, wood and of course ripe cherry fruit.  The palate was nearly identical though I thought there was coffee in the mix.  The tannins were not absent, but they were silky and elegant.  This is an amazing wine and was incredibly fresh.  In keeping with Matteo’s wishes, I won’t score it.  Simply to say, thank you Giacomo for the selection.  It was one of the most memorable Brunello I’ve had in a long time.

~ This was an utterly gorgeous experience ~

The next wine was consumed in one of Chapel Hill’s most authentic Italian restaurants.  Two years ago, on the Rustic Tuscany Tour, we enjoyed a visit to Siro Pacenti.  It was a learning experience that has continued to present reminders to this day. Why?   I was not fond of the wines that day.  Some people loved them. But Siro Pacenti’s Cantina looks like a Bordelaise Cellar.  That is, it’s filled with barriques as far as the eye can see.  We likely tasted the wine below that day. (it may have been 2017)  I’d have to look back.  But the Estate wine, the Pelagrilli and the “VV” were so oaky, I could not get past it.  Maybe time heals all wounds?  Because like this wine’s sibling, I was impressed.

The 2018 Siro Pacenti Brunello Vecchie Vigne is nothing short of delicious.  The wine comes from vineyards that are approaching 40 years of age.  It’s hand harvested and then aged in French barrique for 24 months before being bottle aged for 2-3 years before release.

Brilliant shimmering ruby color.  This leads to sandalwood, forest floor notes, cinnamon, baking spices and crushed berry.  Christmas Cake, powdery minerals and bright cherry in the mouth are balanced and attractive. Yes, the baking spices give the wood away. But this wine is not astringent at all as they showed in the cantina.  It *is* a modern take on Brunello to be sure, so it won’t be everyone’s cup of tea. But I do appreciate different styles, and this one is worth every penny with age on it.  Find this wine.

~ Another wonderful 2018. A vintage, that has rarely, if ever let me down. ~

To round out the triumvirate, we have another favorite producer of mine that was excellent in 2019.   It’s funny, I had this wine at last year’s Benvenuto Brunello and while I liked it, I couched my commentary.  However, that format, the space, the food, the glasses, and the size of the pours made for the worst Brunello event I’ve ever attended.   This year’s was night and day.  I mention it, because this last wine impressed me much moreso than back then.

The 2019 La Gerla Brunello sports a classic color in the decanter with a very pretty sienna rim.  Very floral and aromatic with crushed berry, toasted spices and hints of rosemary.  Dusty on the palate, with lasers of wild cherry punctuated by tobacco notes.  This is more complex now and has gained palate weight while remaining fresh and juicy.  I’d love to have this one in my cellar.  (and it still may come to be)  Find this wine.

~ Enjoyed at Oak Leaf, another wonderful spot in Carrboro, NC ~

While their are amazing Sangiovese being made across Tuscany, in many different places, for me Brunello is still at the top of the mountain.  Only from hubris, complacency or sheer stupidity will this change.  I hope that this is realized not only by the producers, the Consorzio and the winemakers; but by the legions of fans of these wines.

Salute!