Touring Italy – Part 1

Fontana Trevi, Roma

I admit that I hadn’t planned to write anything substantive about this trip, feeling that the task would be too daunting, the events hard to recall and any words I attempted to weave together would simply be faint praise for a trip that met and exceeded my expectations.  Nonetheless, after some prodding, here is my attempt.

Sated, we made our way to the Piazza Spagna and if memory serves, the Fontana Trevi. I immediately began to form an opinion of Rome which somewhat surprised me, but by the end of our visit to the city, I was convinced that I was right.   Dinner was late and consisted simply of beer and pizza, which pretty much blows away anything I have tasted in this country. By 9PM, dopo gelati, we were off to bed.

Up early for breakfast.  I expected breakfast to be a bit of a challenge for the kids, but they took to it very well.  Cereal was available, but the boys were equally happy to nibble on the salami, mortadella, and cheese that was ubiquitous.  Croissants and brioche as well as hard boiled eggs were consumed with vigor. Coffee Americano was like jet fuel, but I was constantly ordering true caffe. The absence of blood orange juice here, and throughout the trip surprised me. In fact, the only place we had it was on the plane during the return trip.  At any rate, we made our way to the Coloseum.  This is truly a sight to see. One can imagine the gladiators battling and the roar of the lions and other wild animals that were doomed to entertain. We arranged a guided tour and the one facet of the discussion that surprised me to know was that gladiator battles were not 1 on 1 events as Hollywood has portrayed.  Regularly, gladiator contests pitted mini-armies of 30 or 40 men battling against each other in arranged teams. Therefore, at any given time, there were between 60 and 80 men fighting.  Additionally, since gladiators were physically fit and highly trained, they were frequently granted mercy and rarely killed since they were expensive to replace. That said, many ultimately died of wounds received in battle.  I was somewhat surprised by what must have been a voracious appetite for gore on the part of the Romans and also that women were allowed to attend the matches – though they had to sit in the upper sections – farthest away where seats were made of wood. Children were not permitted. 

The Colosseum

That evening, we made our way to what for me was the highlight of the time in Rome. Sightseeing and dinner in and around the Piazza Navona.  While this large oval piazza may be a bit on the touristy side, the setting was postcard picturesque. The fountains are gorgeous, there is plenty to sit back, relax and watch.  We decided to eat at Tre Scalini.  The meal was absolutely fabulous and consisted of truffled pasta, gnocchi, veal, roasted pork, contornis of cheese and mushrooms and the famous Tre Scalini tartufo dolci which was a big let down.  Actually, it was delicious, but I’d heard so much about it from family. At any rate, we started with a wonderful bottle of 2006 Antinori Campogrande Orvieto Classico.  It had been a long while since I’d had that, and it did not disappoint.  The perfect foil for the lighter primi dishes as the sun set over the Piazza. We then went through two bottles of Antonelli Montefalco Rosso, but the vintage escapes me.  However, the wine was excellent and seemed to have body approaching that of Sagrantino.  Limoncello, and Fernet Branca finished what was our best meal in Roma.

Upon entering, we noticed two gigantic flat screen televisions just outside the Basilica entrance. On them, were images of the Pope proceeding through large crowds of people. Do they broadcast images of the Pope live in St. Peters from wherever he is?  Is this some sort if 24 hour Pope-Vision?    

It’s sad to say, heartbreaking actually, but even as I write this,  in simple terms, Rome is incredibly filthy.  I’m not talking about the graffiti which is everywhere – but that didn’t surprise me as I’ve seen it in Germany, France and Holland. But my impression formed on the first day, and each succeeding day cemented it.  The smell of urine is everywhere and it’s not from the horses that trot along.  There are empty beer, water, soda, and wine bottles that litter the streets like leaves from a tree.  There are newspapers everywhere except in trash cans which are anything but ubiquitous.  They blow in the constant pleasant, breeze like tumbleweeds and are always underfoot. The streets of Rome are all cobblestone with ¼ inch gaps between the pavers.  The effect has been all but eliminated by cigarette butts which fill the gaps and seemingly create a smooth riding surface.  The major monument and tourist areas are cleaner.  But in Rome you walk to most attractions and you inevitably pass through areas which are typical and very disappointing.  The graffiti is limited at least to the Metro cars, the street lamps, the dumpsters, the concrete street dividers. Rarely is there writing on a building and never on a “classic” building or monument.  

Forza Antonio!