~ A historical linear history of Vignamaggio ~
Vignamaggio may not be the first name that rolls off your tongue when thinking about storied Chianti Classico producers. But make no mistake, Vignamaggio is an icon.
The first evidence of wine production at what was to become Vignamaggio was in the year 1404. Today, the Estate spans over 400 hectares in the municipalities of Greve and Panzano. From that total, 65 hectares of vineyards are carved out.
Although the estate has changed ownership over the centuries, today it’s under the watchful stewardship of Patrice Taravella and his capable team. But the one thing that has remained steadfast over the years is the philosophy: Vignamaggio remains a polycultural center of agriculture. Ornamental Gardens, Olive Trees, Grains and Vineyards combine to form an intricate ecosystem.
~ The Vignamaggio Estate in Panzano ~
In the Vignamaggio “valley” there are 65 hectares of vineyards, divided by the path of the Greve River, which creates a thriving basin dotted with centuries-old forests. The areas near the river are lower and dedicated to vegetable gardens, orchards and the breeding of Cinta Senese pigs and sheep.
The hills extend from the area of Lamole, where the Greve River originates, up to the town of Panzano. The vineyards are found here, a place marked by distinct soil characteristics between the right and left banks of the river and distinguished by two separate Unità Geografiche Aggiuntive (U.G.A.) of Chianti Classico: Greve and Panzano.
Assaggio
Vignamaggio Gherardino Riserva 2021: When the 2021 Chianti Classico started hitting the market, it was obvious how wonderful the vintage was. Especially in places like Panzano and Castellina. Now the Riserva wines are being released and they are worth the wait. This is a lovely bright ruby color. On the nose it displays perfumed aromas of flowers, cherries and spices. There is a hint of alkalinity too. Ripe cherry and sweet herbs on the palate are enticing. This is juicy, fresh and lively. It’s hard to find fault here. It was great with aged Pecorino and Short Ribs. Not yet fully released. 95 points. Find this wine.
~ The Gherardino is 80-90% Sangiovese and 10-20% Merlot ~
This is a deeper ruby than the Riserva and is superbly aromatic. Flowers, deep, dark cherry and wild herbs are utterly amazing. This is equally compelling in the mouth. Deep cherry aromas with fresh fennel and bright sweet herbs add coffee and toasted spices on the finish. It’s stunningly fresh. And for a vintage that was incredibly hot, this is a miraculous effort. It’s also an incredible value. 97 points. Find this wine.
~ The Gran Selezione is 90-95% Sangiovese with the balance to Cabernet Sauvignon ~
~ Francesco Naldi, Vignamaggio Vineyard Manager ~
In preparation for this article, I had the opportunity to sit down with Vineyard Manager Francesco Naldi to discuss goings on at the property. Specifically, we talked about the above wines, vineyard management trends and new developments. The questions are in no particular order.
Intervista con Francesco Naldi, Head Agronomist & Vineyard Manager
Tuscan Vines – The Monna Lisa I tasted was the 2017. Given that, I note that it was blended with Cabernet which is no longer allowed. Are current vintages 100% Sangiovese? Is 2017 the most recent vintage available? What vintage will be next?
In 2023, the indication of the UGA on Chianti Classico Gran Selezione was introduced, but the requirement to use at least 95% Sangiovese will apply only starting from the 2027 harvest.
At the moment, we are selling the 2018 Gran Selezione, but the 2019 and 2020 vintages are also ready.
TV – I notice that the Merlot and Cabernet Franc come from Greve while the Sangiovese wines are from Panzano or blended as is the case with the Chianti Classico. Was the planting of the international varietals done in Greve deliberately? And what aspects do you think each terroir lends to the wine. (i.e. the difference between Panzano and Greve)
In fact, we have wines made from Sangiovese, Merlot, and Cabernet vineyards both in Greve and in Panzano. However, the Riserva and the Gran Selezione come from the Panzano UGA. The soils in Panzano are very well suited to Sangiovese because they are of medium texture and enjoy brighter exposures.
TV – More and more producers are getting away from Tonneaux and Barrique and using only Slavonian oak (or at least large cask) for their Sangiovese based wines. What is the “wood philosophy” at Vignamaggio?
Vignamaggio’s approach to wood aging aims for a low aromatic impact from the oak, which means the predominant use of large casks for Sangiovese and barriques for Merlot and Cabernet, although this is not an absolute rule. That said, the wines you’ve included for this article only see large oak aging.
TV – With all the changes to Chianti Classico over the last few years – the creation of Gran Selezione, the increase to 90% minimum Sangiovese with no more international grapes allowed and now the new UGA labeling permission, what do you see coming next? What is Vignamaggio’s opinion about these changes?
We believe that Chianti Classico should focus primarily on Sangiovese, obtained both from the new clones developed through the Chianti Classico 2000 project and from those selected through our own internal massal selection program. Sangiovese has, and always will be integral to the identity of Chianti Classico.
TV – Finally, what is new at Vignamaggio? What would you like my readers to know?
Vignamaggio is carrying out an important agricultural and real-estate project in the Greve in Chianti area, aimed at sustainable, multi-crop agriculture, also promoted through a significant flow of tourism.
~ Vineyard plots of Vignamaggio ~
Stay tuned for more coverage of wine from Vignamaggio which will be included in future Tuscan Snips.
Salute!
