~ Vineyards and stock house at Castell’in Villa ~
Castell’in Villa was established in 1968. Even though that’s five decades ago, it’s an infancy relative to many Tuscan wineries. Still, it didn’t take them long to make their mark on Chianti Classico. The winery’s first commercial Riserva release, the 1971, is considered legendary. Bottles of this very vintage reside in their cellars today.
Proprietress Coralia Pignatelli della Leonessa and her husband bought the property in 1968. At the time, there was nothing there but a 13th century farmhouse and one hectare of vineyards. They quickly expanded the plantings and updated the farmhouses. In doing so, they sought the advice of the Chianti Consorzio and as a result, quickly eliminated the use of white grapes in their wine. Ultimately, they switched to 100% Sangiovese.
~ Vineyards at Castell’in Villa ~
Today the estate spans nearly 300 hectares. However, only 54 are devoted to vineyards which enjoy southwest exposure atop one of Castelnuovo’s highest points. As a result, despite being part of this southern Chianti Classico Commune, the vines enjoy large diurnal temperature swings not common in Castelnuovo.
~ Spring pea, prosciutto and mushroom risotto was a pretty foil for this Chianti Classico ~
One of the estate’s hallmarks is the slower timeline for releasing their wines. As a result, in many markets the 2019 is the current release. Such is the case locally. I last reported on Castell’in Villa for their 2017 release. Better vintage here; better wine.
The 2019 Castell’in Villa Chianti Classico is not without controversy. I recently discussed that with participants on my social media channels. House style is one thing, so I’m not sure where the debate comes from quite honestly. But I suspect that because the wines from Castelnuovo Berardenga are generally more plush, riper and masculine, this wine catches people off guard when it doesn’t show that way. Castell’in Villa presents as if Castelnuovo and Greve had a baby.
Deep ruby color with a classic fade at the edge of the bowl, this 2019 is 100% Sangiovese and aged in large botte grande for 12 months. It is aromatic immediately, with flowers, baking spices, tobacco and wild berry fruit notes. However, it’s the palate that makes one scratch your head. Patience is the key here. I don’t think this wine needs age, but it does need air. 90 minutes in a decanter would be very beneficial.
On the palate, it’s at first very linear and thin. Muted cherry flavors are backed by fine tannins and dusty minerals. As it opens, the wine blossoms more fully. The fruit plumps considerably and it was quite delicious with the Risotto. It’s a solid classico, but requires a little TLC. 92 points. About $31. Find this wine.
I gravitate to this wine when I see top vintages because a few winemakers I know from the area speak very highly of this producer. This wine was 14% abv. and that’s the highest I can ever remember recording for this producer.
~ The 2019 is classically styled. It needs decanting as it’s very linear at the outset ~
Salute!
