~ The Church of San Biagio as seen from Montepulciano ~
I never expected to be writing this.
And I don’t really know where to begin. So in the words of the late Glenn Frey, “we might as well start at the beginning.”
The Rustic Tuscany Tour never disappoints but when traveling with 14 people, myself included, you can always count on little adventures along the way that are, shall we say, “off itinerary”. Whether it’s helping a guest at a Farmacia or scouring Fiumicino for a caricatore because you hadn’t noticed your adapter didn’t support a USB-C. Ahhh, fun. But this year was different.
~ We arrived at Gagliole in the midst of harvest ~
We arrived at Gagliole in Panzano on a glorious day. The air was clean and we toured the grounds and vineyards under a cloudless, deep blue sky. Our host, Alessia took us around the back of the cellar as the grapes were arriving. She discussed the harvest – how these grapes were arriving from Panzano. Gagliole has properties in Castellina and Panzano and the former suffered almost 40% reduction in yields. Panzano would be less too, but that day it was unknown how severe the reduction would be. Still, these grapes looked (and tasted!) great. After a visit through the cellars, we retired to a private area for lunch.
Almost without warning, the entire tenor of the Tour changed. In the blink of an eye, my business partner succumbed to a significant seizure. One of our guests was a registered nurse who immediately sprang into action. As my partner fell to the floor, it was obvious and terrifying that we would need advanced medical assistance. The team at Gagliole sprang into action in a manner that was beyond commendable.
~ An ancient olive tree outback of the Sant’Antimo Abbey ~
In seconds the Gagliole team dialed 112 (911) and the ambulance was on the way. Cosimo, another friend of mine from Gagliole, was able to get through to someone via Facetime who was viewing the scene and giving directions. A German Doctor staying at the property came to offer his help as well.
But anyone who has ever been to Tuscany knows what the country roads are like. If you don’t, imagine narrow roads, mostly paved, but windy, twisty, curvy and “S” like seemingly for miles. When it should take 5 minutes to go 5 miles, it can often take close to 15. And that’s if there is no one in the way.
As a result, the team at Gagliole didn’t like the pace at which the Ambulance was arriving and one of them said: “BLEEP this, I’m calling the helicopter.” The ambulance finally arrived. The helicopter arrived 3 minutes later. What followed then was nothing more than surreal. Two incredibly fit, harnessed up, backpack wearing, medical case toting men rappelled from the helicopter like (as the German Doctor said) “the Navy Seals have arrived.” With seemingly no effort, they cleared the room, moved the table and begun utilizing all sorts of equipment while the helicopter was set down near by. Almost as rapidly as they arrived, my partner was strapped to a gurney and off they went; the helo bound for Firenze.
By this time the guests were shaken, my mind was racing 1,000 miles per hour, and Alessia was in tears. I’ve always liked her a lot, but we connected deeply that day. Cosimo reassured me that it would be futile for me to go to Firenze despite Alessia’s offer to take me. Not being related at all, there was no way they would give me any information or let me see my partner.
~ Artwork in the Cathedral of Santa Maria Assunta, Montepulciano ~
And, I still had 12 people in my charge. I would be leading the Tour solo for at least the next several days. Alessia was given assurance by the “Navy Seals” that they would be in touch with information. The group was scheduled to have a free evening in Siena that night, so we meandered back to the Hotel and I got to work tying up loose ends and reconfirming the next day’s schedules.
Sure enough, later that evening we received word that my friend was stable and would be fine. He was treated well and could expect to rejoin the Tour group in 2 days time. With things mostly settled, at what turned out to be an impromptu gathering of the entire group at Bar Palio, the Negronis tasted sweeter that night.
~ Palazzo Contucci dominates one end of the Piazza Grande in Montepulciano ~
Two days later, we moved on to Montepulciano. And I never expected to be writing this.
We give the group about 75 minutes to meander around town prior to our appointment for Tour & Tasting at Contucci. It was windy and it was cold. And so I went about in search of a coffee and a warm corner. Even though I knew my friend was recovering, I was still decompressing.
The Piazza Grande in Montepulciano is dominated by three things; Town Hall, Palazzo Contucci and the Cathedral of Santa Maria Assunta. For the last few years, the Cathedral has been closed for repairs. The exterior steps were crumbling, one of the stone door frames had sagged to the point of collapse so as a result, I had never been inside. As I climbed up the steep streets back toward the Piazza, I saw one of my guests. He said, “Did you go into the Church?” When I said no, he implored – “Do go have a look, it’s quite something. And bear in mind we’re here in the middle of nowhere on top of a very large hill.”
Indeed, Montepulciano is a bit far flung. That’s one of the reasons I enjoy it and one of the reasons it’s “slower” and less crowded. It’s far from a large artery and doesn’t enjoy as easy access as some other famous hill towns do. Plus, it sure is up high. So, into the Church I went. If for nothing more than to get warm.
~ The Altar of Santa Maria Assunta ~
The Church was miraculous. The frescoes, the art work, the arch work, the size of the columns holding it all up; the marble floor and walls, the ornate altar, the wooden beams – all of it, somehow put together by hand. All of it, dragged up these hills from afar. All of it pieced together in beauty. It struck me. Someone cared.
I have to admit, I was tired. I was reflective. I had confirmed the itinerary, secured my partners belongings, moved reservations, arranged for Tour payments and just owing to the rigors of travel, my gut wasn’t feeling the best. So, I lit a candle for my friend and sat down to pray.
What did Almighty God what me to learn from this? Self confidence? Independence? Compassion? Why here? Why now? Was it simply random? I ascribe to the belief that everyone has their own individual relationship with God; no matter the form. What works for someone may not work for others. For me, I didn’t believe in randomness. The last few days had been very hard. And I was weary. In glancing at my watch, I realized I had just enough time for another coffee. And that’s when I heard it. Hallelujah….
I know there are many versions of the song, but for me, when I hear that music being played, my mind goes to the Rufus Wainwright version. As I walked from the Church, the man below was playing Hallelujah. “I heard there was a secret chord that David played and it pleased the Lord…..” and so I walked out onto the steps and to my shock and almost surreal surprise, began singing the song next to the cellist. He looked at me, smiled and continued to play on while I continued to sing. After the second verse, the cellist began singing harmony over me. He didn’t play the entire song, but we ended together on Hallelujah. He got up, hugged me and thanked me. As I thanked him. Then he played on, and I walked away with a smile on my soul and a grin on my face. I felt lighter. It was only then that I noticed the crowd watching and applauding. And yet not one of my guests got a video….. Just as well. Sometimes things are just for you.
~ The Cellist was sitting on the steps of the Cathedral playing music ~
The song has been described as life being full of contradictions and conflicts that cannot always be resolved, yet there are moments when we embrace the whole mess and simply say “hallelujah” anyway. That idea of a “holy” and a “broken” hallelujah permeates the song as it does life. So find beauty everywhere. Find it in the complex. Find it in simplicity. And understand that while things might seem fearful, confusing or chaotic, lean not on your own understanding and trust. Trust in the Lord. When you need a reminder, it seems to me, I’ve always been given one.
~ A pedestrian alley in Cortona ~
Hallelujah……
