~ Montalcino finds itself releasing another outstanding vintage ~
Brunello di Montalcino is on the verge of releasing another excellent vintage. And that is a significant statement. Why? Because it was a vintage that posed several climate challenges. Look what I wrote at the top of my 2021 Annual Harvest Report coverage:
“2021 has already provided its share of challenges. First, the growing season began with very warm temperatures in early to Mid-March. This caused “premature” bud break across the region which is mainly bad for one reason: frost. Sure enough, by April, frost damage was widespread and very reminiscent of the 2017 growing season. While not as severe, there was plenty of damage.
Second, in what appears to be a recurring trend, as Summer progresses, the heat across Tuscany has become a challenge. As I write this, temperatures in Montalcino have soared to 100 degrees on several occasions. 90 plus temperatures are routine. In San Gimignano, even at higher elevation, Daniele Rosti writes, “In the last 30 days we’ve had only 9 days below 35°C (95°F). This is the maximum temperature sustainable in the vineyards to avoid heat stress.” Today, his vineyards have hit 105 degrees.”
As alluded to above, the Spring frosts reduced yields 10% to 30% with many producers at the higher end. This was followed by a hot, dry summer with just enough rain to refresh the vines and keep them from shutting down. The key in 2021 was that the September weather was perfect. Warm days and cool nights facilitated ideal ripening. Overall the quality is excellent with the one caveat being alcohol levels. I will talk more about that below. Andiamo!
I Vini di Brunello di Montalcino 2021
La Magia has become a routine stop on the Rustic Tuscany Tour and for good reason. This small, family winery sits atop the Tuscan hills overlooking the Abbey of Sant’Antimo. Even on a warm Autumn day, the winds atop the ridge are fresh and constant. Winemaker Fabian Schwarz credits this constant breeze to the freshness in his wines.
La Magia was founded in 1976 by the Schwarz family and the estate consists of 15 hectares that are certified organic since 2008. Many of the vines are 40+ years old.
The 2021 La Magia Brunello is another excellent wine from this estate. At this young stage, I correctly opened it 2 hours in advance – so if you’re tempted to try right away, factor that in. The aromas came forth with lots of crushed cherry, sweet scrub herbs and toasted spices. This is fresh in the mouth – juicy and lively. Flavors echo the nose with a medium to full bodied feel that suggests this wine will be approachable sooner rather than later. Very enjoyable – but I warn you that the alcohol is 15% and as the wine warmed, it became more noticeable. Serve it on the cooler side. 91 points. Not yet fully released.
~ Even at this young age, this 2021 is very enjoyable. Watch the serving temperature though ~
In June, I spent a little over a week cruising around Tuscany with my son. I had some things to tie up related to Rustic Tuscany and some research to do for future tours. But mostly, we were hanging out. With lunch in Montalcino one day, we enjoy the recent release from Castello Banfi.
The 2021 Castello Banfi Brunello is a deep garnet color in the glass. I remember it clearly, delicious, yet a bit unremarkable. It was the perfect foil to panzanella followed by pici aglione and pici tartufo; it’s soft wild berry flavors accented by spice and new leather. The aroma, a seamless blend of fruit and spice. This is persistent and very easy to drink. It enhanced the meal without dominating it. This should drink well for the next 8-10 years. It’s a pretty wine and a good value purchased in Italy. 91 points. Find this wine.
~ The Castello Banfi Brunello is open and accessible ~
Named after a 12th century bandit that led the people of Montalcino against the ruthless oppressors from Siena, Ugolforte is the flag bearer for Tenuta San Giorgio. Situated not far from the symbolic Abbey at Sant’Antimo, San Giorgio is perched about 350-400 meters above sea level near the town of Castelnuovo dell’Abate. The vineyard soils consist of clay, chalk and loam and as a result, “the essence of ancient seabeds” lend a distinct minerality to their wines.
I’ve enjoyed this wine many times, specifically the 2019 which was an amazing value. This too, is of equal value. The 2021 Tenuta San Giorgio Ugolforte is a deep, dark brooding winner. On the nose, it is remarkably fresh with crushed cherry, cinnamon and dusty road earth. But as I sipped it, boisterous and primary – full of “juice”, I couldn’t help but think of Def Leppard’s song “Let’s Go“. The song is not trying to be intellectual. It’s designed to get you up and sing. “Welcome to the Carnival, Welcome to the Party – Welcome to the Edge of Your Seat!”
That’s what this wine does. It makes you happy. It makes you smile. It’s the vinous equivalent of Saltimbocca. It’s under $50 in most places and for the dark cherry, wild herb and Tuscan scrub hook that you get for that tariff, I’m in. 92 points. Find this wine.
~ San Giorgio is owned by Colle Massari ~
Tenute Silvio Nardi is one of the original Brunello producers. Earlier this year, lucky readers of mine were able to join and exclusive dinner event hosted by myself and Emilia Nardi. We tasted several vintages of Manachiara. Manachiara means “Morning Light” and is a tribute to the site of this east facing vineyard.
The 2021 Tenute Silvio Nardi Vigna Manachiara Brunello is a sole parcel with tough, dry soil that often cracks on the surface. This forces the vine to dig deep for its nourishment and as a result, it produces deeply concentrated and flavorful berries. Just look at the color on this.
Big, robust flavors and aromas are marked by crushed black cherry, wild flowers, black plum, tobacco leaf and dusty minerality. It is simply a gorgeous wine and with a 60 minute decant, it shined. But this could cellar for a decade easily. 95 points. Not yet fully released. Find this wine.
~ This wine is a masterpiece in 2021 ~
The Il Marroneto Estate sits in the northern part of the Brunello zone not far from the walls of Montalcino. At elevations of 350 to 400 meters above sea level, Il Marroneto’s vineyards are some of the highest in the DOCG. As of 1979, there were just over 2/3 of an acre under vine. Alessandro Mori expanded this by 2 more acres in 1984.
To be plainly clear, the only thing wrong with this wine is the price. And that’s a big caveat. The current vintage will cost upwards of $150 while older vintages can be had closer to $100 if you shop around. That’s painful. It is. And Brunello di Montalcino doesn’t need to be that expensive. But, with that said, the wine is stellar.
The 2021 Il Marroneto Brunello is a pretty ruby color. The aromas are spectacular. Fresh, wild cherry with tons of flowers, baking spices, new leather and dusty earth. Everything is fresh. In the mouth, the wine displays more power than one might expect. Leather, crushed wild cherry, rosemary and cured meats are delicious. There is nothing not to like here. 94 points. Find this wine.
~ Look at the contrast in color between Manachiara and this Brunello ~
Altesino owns vineyards throughout the Brunello zone. This “spread” allows them to manage the vagaries of each vintage carefully. Exposure, soils and elevation vary across their six vineyard parcels which total approximately 50 hectares. As a result, the estate Brunello displays a trademark house style. Furthermore, its this very consistency that is a hallmark of Altesino’s quality.
~ The black dots indicate Altesino vineyard holdings ~
The 2021 Altesino Brunello is absolutely gorgeous. What hits me most about this wine is the freshness. The team did an amazing job balancing that. Bright fruit, fresh flowers and hints of fresh herbs mark the nose and palate; but the texture and juiciness of the wine is what shines. Smooth, elegant and long, this drinks very well now but has the balance to age gracefully. In that sense, I suppose it depends on what you’re after. I’d enjoy this now. 93 points. Find this wine.
~ Altesino is quite honestly, a consistent go to Brunello ~
Talenti has become a fixture on the Rustic Tuscany Tour. They sit high atop the Montalcino ridge close to town. As I wrote here, after last year’s Tour stop, the formula is pretty simple to me: Great family, great wines, great values. While it may seem odd to refer to a premium Cru Brunello di Montalcino as a value, Piero truly is.
Piero is current winemaker Riccardo Talenti’s grand father. He had a strong hand in Riccardo’s life and quite simply, if this wine isn’t destined to be outstanding, Riccardo won’t put his grandfathers name on it.
The 2021 Talenti Brunello Cru “Piero” is a large scaled wine. Even after being opened some 45 minutes, the wine hadn’t budged. It is tight and huge. I’m curious to watch this evolve. Right now it’s little more than a wall of fruit, spice and tannin. However, the balance is there and I foresee a bright future. For now, I’m only comfortable with a range – say 93-97 points. This is one of those “Cellar Selections”. Be patient. Affordable at the winery, about $80 Euro. Otherwise, Find this wine.
~ The Piero Cru Brunello is a special wine ~
The next wine is maybe the best value in all of Brunello. Would you agree if it were around $36? Last year when we were with Elisa Fanti we were enjoying the 2020 lineup immensely. She pulled me aside and said “John, for me, the 2021s….and that made that hand gesture Italians use when they love something. She said you have to taste them. So she brought along some “unofficial wines” that we had over lunch with the group. And yeah, she was right. Now, almost a year later, the finished wines are in bottle.
The 2021 Tenuta Fanti Brunello is everything you could want in a Brunello di Montalcino at twice the price. On the nose, this is wonderfully fragrant with crushed wild cherry, red flowers, toasted spice and hints of roasted nuts. In the mouth, the wine is pure, juicy and fresh. Flavors echo the nose with baking spices added and a hint of fennel on the back end. Someone once said the wine was “eminently drinkable”. That’s this beauty. 93 points. Find it at Enoteca di Piazza with my Coupon Code “FODERA”.
~ One of the best values in all of Brunello ~
Not unlike the Fanti, the estate bottling from Talenti is also an amazing value. I think if I had this wine and the Fanti in my cellar from 2021, I’d be perfectly satisfied. The 2021 Talenti Brunello is, again, filled with a juicy freshness that is the star of the show. Wonderful flavors and aromas of crushed wild cherry, fresh sweet herbs, toasted spice and lovely pipe tobacco notes. This is a 1/2 case purchase easy. 93 points. Find this wine at Enoteca di Piazza and save 10% with my code “FODERA”.
~ Another outstanding effort in an estate Brunello ~
In June, I visited the estate of Podere San Lorenzo. I think San Lorenzo flies under the radar and that’s to your peril. The Estate is owned by Luciano Ciolfi and he shepherds 20,000 bottles a year from his 7 hectares of vineyards. He produces only Sangiovese in Brunello, Riserva, Rosso and Rosato renditions. His wines are excellent and built to age. We tasted 16 wines at the property in June, including barrel samples and Brunello back to 2004. His cellared wines were amazingly fresh and will reward patience.
The 2021 San Lorenzo Brunello is an intense ruby color. That intensity follows on the nose with perfumed wild berry aromas. It’s still very primary. In the mouth, the balance is just gorgeous. Long, juicy crushed fruit flavors are accented with wet stones and minerality. The tannins are noticeable but powdery. This has a bright future, especially as I juxtaposed it along with the 2004 and 2006. Available from the winery direct or at Enoteca di Piazza.
~ This is another candidate for the cellar ~
This wraps up Part 1 of my 2021 coverage. Next week, I head back to Tuscany and will certainly be gathering more data points on the 2021s and more than likely, tasting some bottled 2022s as well. It’s an exciting time to be buying these Sangiovese. Stay tuned for more coverage and follow me on my social media outlets for “on the ground” pictures and information from the Rustic Tuscany Tour.
Salute!
