~ Wandering around Montepulciano ~
Vino Nobile is often overlooked in discussions about Tuscan reds. I have covered the region many times and I can state unequivocally, if you ignore them, you do so at your peril.
In 1789, when Thomas Jefferson returned home from his station abroad in France, he could hardly imagine what lie in store for him. The United States was a nascent country and its fate hung in the balance. Mounting debts and a collapsing currency brought the country to a tipping point and Jefferson seized the moment. He invited Alexander Hamilton and James Madison to his home for an elegant and elaborate dinner. His hope was to broker a deal between the three men that would save the fledgling republic. What was the chosen wine for the evening? Vino Nobile!
Countless comparisons have been made between Vino Nobile and Brunello. Which is better? Are they equals? Which boasts the oldest history? I say simply, it does not matter. They are related only in so far as they come from towns that begin with the letter “M”. Yes, they both rely on Sangiovese. However, they are no more comparable than dark chocolate is to milk chocolate containing almonds or dried fruit. They are both original, storied and unique. So let’s move on.
~ Local flavor in Vino Nobile country ~
Andrea Contucci traces his family’s wine making roots to the year 1008. But, although that’s impressive, that’s not what makes this gentle man special. Despite the fact that Andrea’s family is Nobility who, along with a handful of other families, essentially founded Montepulciano, Contucci is as humble and soft spoken as can be.
The family’s Palazzo stands on the Piazza Grande in Montepulciano directly across from the Town Hall. It’s almost impossible to visit Montepulciano and miss it. It’s a fixture on the Rustic Tuscany Tour and with good reason. Andrea’s wines are as charming as he is. Contucci is Montepulciano.
Last year, on the Rustic Tuscany Tour, I shipped home some of the 2019 Contucci Vino Nobile. I wish now I had bought more. Here is my note from that tasting: “This is a wine that is sourced from all three areas where the family has vineyards: East, South and West of Montepulciano. In that sense, it is the most representative of the vintage as a whole. I’ve enjoyed every vintage of this wine going back to 2015 and for me, the 2019 is the best yet. It’s floral and fruity on the nose with hints of Christmas spices. It is absolutely gorgeous in the mouth with juicy persistent flavors, freshness and complexity. Medium weight tannins make it approachable and versatile. Well worth buying. (and I did!) 80% Sangiovese, 10% Colorino, 10% Canaiolo.”
All I can add now is that this delivered as above in spades last night. It was astounding. Alluring. Aromatic. Juicy. Fresh. Vibrant. Long. It is one of the best values I’ve enjoyed all year. Utterly amazing. 95 points. Find this wine. (you might reach out to the winery to see if the 2019 is still available)
~ An outstanding Vino Nobile made by a wonderful family. I wish I’d bought a case ~
Asinone is named after the vineyard that bears the same name and whose topography strikes an odd resemblance to a donkey’s back. First introduced as a Vino Nobile Riserva in 1983, it quickly became obvious that the vineyard was special. Today the vineyard is approximately 12 hectares with vines that date back to 1963. In the best vintages, Asinone will be 100% Sangiovese.
The 2019 Poliziano Asinone is another miraculous Sangiovese. Deep garnet in the glass with violet highlights, this too is incredibly aromatic. Freshly cut flowers, sweet pipe tobacco and loads of ripe cherry just fill the glass. On the palate, the wine sings a harmony of coffee bean, wild cherry, toasted spices and flinty mineral. What the 2019 lacks in coglione compared to the 2015 (linked above) it makes up for in finesse and aromatics. I love this. 96 points. Find this wine.
~ This is another must have vintage of Asinone ~
Founded in 1977, the Castellare estate is relatively young. However, the estate is fortunate enough to hold some of the highest vineyard parcels in all of Chianti Classico, with vineyards situated at 1,200 feet above sea level. Located in Castellina in Chianti, the 46 acre estate has become a sort of natural refuge for forestry and wildlife. In fact, many of the birds that grace Castellare’s labels are native to their estate – which is legally protected by the Italian Government. The estate is owned by Paolo Panerai and the lead winemaker is Alessandro Cellai. The team is dedicated to crafting honest, premium wines driven by terroir. They are farmers and as Paolo muses, each vintage is unique and demands the attention of the winemaker to listen to what nature has provided.
Production of I Sodi San Niccolo is approximately 25,000 bottles so although it is not the most ubiquitous wine, it is well worth the search. Comprised of 85% Sangiovese and 15% Malvasia Nera, the wine is vinified in stainless steel for approximately 14 days. After that time, the wine is racked to new and 1 year used barrique for 24 months and then ages an additional 24 months after bottling.
~ A partial view of the I Sodi Vineyard in Castellina ~
The 2019 Castellare I Sodi di San Niccolo is another remarkable effort by this winery. Recently, I spoke about Castellare’s Riserva and the lineage here is impressive. Dark garnet, it’s brooding in the glass and took almost two hours to open aromatically. (I decanted for 1 hour) As the aromas emerged, turned earth, cigar tobacco, loads of baking spices and crushed, wild cherry came forth. On the palate, the wine is immense. Unlike the nose, it showed well from the start. Ripe crushed cherry, Christmas Cake, fennel seed and a lovely cured meat note are mesmerizing. This is the best version of this wine I’ve ever tasted. Shop around for this one. The price seems to vary dramatically. Over $100 it’s a stretch. But I’ve seen it as low as $75. 96 points. Find this wine.
~ Decant this for 2 hours if approaching now ~
Another sunny shot from the walls of Montepulciano…..
~ The Chiesa di San Biagio is visible from the top of Montepulciano ~
Finally, for this last review, I’m touching on yet another vintage.
Bettino Ricasoli is credited with creating and promoting the original formula for Chianti wine. He proved to be remarkably prescient even as he was refining the formula for what would ultimately become Chianti. His early writings from 1872 provide insight to his thinking.
” …I verified the results of the early experiments, that is, that the wine receives most of its aroma from the Sangioveto (which is my particular aim) as well as a certain vigour in taste; the Canaiuolo gives it a sweetness which tempers the harshness of the former without taking away any of its aroma, though it has an aroma all of its own; the Malvagia, which could probably be omitted for wines for laying down, tends to dilute the wine made from the first two grapes, but increases the taste and makes the wine lighter and more readily suitable for daily consumption…”
Given the above, I found it slightly ironic that three of his flagship Gran Selezione are all styled in a very modern way. However, despite me being critical of this wine in the past – mainly for the oak influence in the wine – Ricasoli has hit a home run in 2020.
The 2020 Ricasoli Gran Selezione CeniPrimo is 100% Sangiovese and a vibrant, deep ruby color in the glass. It is beyond fragrant. This is perfumed. Floral, nutty, spicy white pepper, crushed stones, bright black cherry and raw fennel mark an incredible nose. At the moment, the palate is more restrained. But what it does show is remarkable freshness. Juicy, ripe cherry fruit coats the palate and is absolutely mouth watering. There is a streak of toasted spice, but it’s not close to being over done. Long and flavorful with a spicy, juicy finish. I will hold my remaining bottles for 3-5 years more but the future is bright here. 94 points. Find this wine..
~ Intensely aromatic, fresh and polished ~
Have you tried any of these wines? Let’s hear about them either here or on my X Account.
Stay tuned for more data points coming on “Current Release” Chianti Classico, Brunello 2021, some further notes from 2026 Rustic Tuscany and more. Stay tuned, stay current!
Salute!
