Rustic Tuscany Glimpses – 2025

~ Rustic Tuscany can inspire in unexpected ways. This simple shot was taken on my morning run – sunlight burning through fog and illuminating vines, plows and wine barrels ~

The 2025 Rustic Tuscany Tour just concluded with outstanding success.  However, it seems like only yesterday that the 2024 Tour finished, yet time and Tuscany marches on.  And so we march with it!

In what has become an annual tradition, I pen this article to capture *some* of the highlights from the Tour.  More will be forthcoming, but for now, soak it in.

~ The Welcome Apperitivo on the rooftop in Fiumicino. The wonderful tramonto gave us a great start to the Tour ~

The 2024 Tour took place in the first half of September.  At that time, very few properties were involved with the harvest.  But this year, we got to see real time vendemmia at almost every estate.  Our first stop was a tour, tasting and lunch at Val delle Rose; the Cecchi family’s iconic property in Maremma.

~ Val delle Rose were punching down the cap while we visited. One of our guests was able to work the piston. This was Merlot that was harvested for Aurelio ~

The aroma of Vendemmia was present everywhere.  And guests got a unique treat at Val delle Rose.  Their Vermentino was one week from picking and was still fermenting while we visited.  Winemaker Alessandra happily pulled a pitcher from the tank so that we could taste it.  But not too much, since it can ummmm, clean you out!

~ The citrus and mineral notes were already present in this week old wine. 2025 should prove excellent indeed for Litorale ~

Harvest was very busy for Andrea, but he still made time to have lunch with us under the trellis of wisteria….

~ Andrea Cecchi and my Socio, Larsino ~

Andrea was thrilled with the quality of the 2025 harvest; a refrain we would hear often on this trip.  While the quantity was reduced the quality is very high. Andrea said “near perfect” Vermentino and Merlot were harvested days before our arrival. And while Sangiovese was hanging in their oldest vineyard and Cabernet was still a “week or so” away, things were looking quite good.

Our next stop was to see friends at Fattoria Le Pupille.  This winery continues to do amazing things.  We had an extensive tasting that included new releases of icons Saffredi and Poggio Valente, but also cellared gems and yet unreleased vintages of Elisabetta Geppetti’s exclusive Syrah.  The wines impressed.

We also caught them in harvest.

~ The team was bringing in Petit Verdot for Saffredi. It was delicious! ~

After orders were placed and palates satiated, we made our way to Il Civettaio, our country home for the next 5 nights.  Il Civettaio is without question, a working farm and winery.  It puts the R in Rustic but each and every year, the Guests tell us that being there is a highlight of the Tour.  It is our base for exploring Montalcino.  Our first winery therein, was Talenti.

~ The team at Talenti was harvesting. Much of their Sangiovese was picked, but they were waiting on some older blocks ~

Riccardo was on hand to chat and even had “ANTHONY” working the machine to punch down the cap. Do you know who gets to do that in Tuscan wineries?  That’s right, no one!  Unless you’re with me.

~ A guest smelling must from Petit Verdot. Destined now for that wonderful elixir, grappa ~

Talenti is on their game. To me, they hit the trifecta and I cannot see removing them from the Tour.  The trifecta?  Great family. Great wines. Great prices.  The Piero is a Cru Brunello worth seeking out. It’s his Grandfather’s wine. It’s an omaggio.  If it’s not great, he’s not going to put his Grandfathers name on it.  Everyone in town knows who Piero Talenti was.  It’s the honor that lingers.

The next day we wandered over to the Castelnuovo del’Abate neck of the woods.  Before visiting Tenuta Fanti, we made a reflective stop at the Abbey.  This was the first time we’ve allocated enough time to visit the Church and it was incredibly well received and appreciated.

~ The Cypress next to the Campanile is famous for ending up in Tuscan calendars ~

Generally, we enjoy a lunch at Fanti, but this year we built in a special surprise for the guests.  We did our usual Tour and Tasting, but then we went into town for lunch and Elisa surprised the guests by meeting us there. And….she toted along some goodies.

~ It was quite windy and I got whipped! ~

The Fanti wines represent the trifecta too.  But oh do they deliver.  We tasted the 2020 Vallochio Brunello which is gorgeous but also the 2019 Riserva Macchiarelle which I have to say, is worth every penny and a bargain in Riserva.  At lunch, Elisa brought along her 2019 Merlot (purezza) and an en primeur of the 2021 Vallocchio.  The latter may be the best version of that wine I’ve ever tasted.

When it came time to transfer to  Chianti Classico, we were in need of a lunch spot along the route and found a quiet place in Buonconvento.  Since the evening would be “free” for the guests, we figured we’d feed them heartily and after pasta, went for Bistecca with all the contorni.

~ The Fiorentina was tender and juicy. Salt and Evoo was all that was needed ~

Was it good Pietro, darling?

~ I love this guy. And his wife! ~

With lunch we had a mini masters class on the 2023 vs. 2020 vintage.  With the pasta course we began with the 2023 Rosso di Montalcino from Lisini.  At best it was drinkable. We gravitated to it, honestly, because of the compelling price vis a vis the other RdM.  But realized too late that it was 2023 vs. 2022.  Our mistake.  As soon as those bottles were gone we went to the 2020 Lisini and saw the estate’s quality in full grandeur.  A gorgeous Brunello.  Open, meaty, powerful and perfect with the steak.

~ This is one I would happily add to the cellar, though like many 2020s I’ve had, it’s drinking well now ~

Day 1 in Chianti Classico saw us take in the full range of gastronomic pleasures at Gagliole.   That is, Tour, Tasting and Lunch.  Alessia did a wonderful job with the guests but I was sad to miss my friend Cosimo who coincidentally was in the US.

Gagliole is one of the best producers of Chianti Classico – period.  They source fruit from Castellina and Panzano and craft beautiful wines across their range.  Perhaps one of the surprises here was their white wine, “Il Bianco” which was so impressive I shipped some home.  It’s a blend of Trebbiano, Malvasia Bianca and Viognier.

~ A gorgeous zucchini lasagna with bechamella ~

Another surprise was a “Cru” olive oil that was an “Old Tree” oil.  They have segregated a parcel containing their oldest trees (50-75 years) and bottle this oil separately. It was noticeably more intense.

~ The Gold of Gagliole ~

With lunch completed at Gagliole and purchases acquired, we trekked to what may have been set up for a bit of a let down.  But no no no.  Castello di Monsanto is miraculous for many reasons.  From it’s Castle, to its manicured gardens, but the real treat is the cavernous, dungeon like cellars below the 17th century fortress.  Here rests a library of vintages from modern day back to 1960, the founding of the estate. It’s unlike anything in Italy and the bottles are constantly checked for quality.  They are available for sale.

~ This is the tunnel that leads to the ancient aging cellars. The wines in the niches behind the gates are birth year vintages of the owners children and grand children ~

Every time we tour Monsanto, and make the turn from this tunnel into the aging cellars, there is always an audible gasp from the guests.  This year, we also heard a few holy shits….  Makes me smile.  🙂

We were joined this year by 4th generation family proprietor Giulia Cecchi, who, along with her mother Laura Bianchi, run the property. Giulia wasn’t satisfied with the tasting we had and so, retrieved a little surprise from the caves.  You know who gets to do that?  Right,  nobody.

~ The 1982 Il Poggio Riserva was in near perfect condition ~

When she emerged with a bottle of 1982 Il Poggio Chianti Classico Riserva (No GS selection them as now) again there were more audible gasps.  This was fresh as a daisy – as if it were only years old. It did display a bit of balsamic at the outset but that quickly blew off.  Juicy, fresh, ripe, wonderful Sangiovese character. The beauty of Il Poggio is that it’s truly a special Cru.  It’s an amazing wine and the beauty of the Bianchi family is that they insist on keeping it affordable. Current vintages sell for about $80.

The next day we visited Daniele at Campochiarenti.  The rain was coming down hard, so we were confined to the cellars but still managed to hear about Daniele’s philosophy. In his dry, but witty and humorous manner, he captivated the guests about his new wines and some of his planned surprises.

~ His newest wine from the glass “globe” – a 100% Vernaccia ~

The 2024 Ubi Maior is glass vinified and aged Vernaccia.  It is as stripped down and pure as Vernaccia gets. The wine is replete with citrus and mineral notes, but little else. The body is crisp, refreshing and not nearly as full as his estate Vernaccia. It is clean and pure.  Expect an offering from Daniele on this one soon.

We bought a case of wine from Campochiarenti to take to our lunch at a private family country villa. Food and conviviality flowed in abundance.  And so did the wine!

~ It was quite the lunch ~

~ A risotto unlike any I have tasted. It made me rethink Risotto. Simple butternut squash risotto with cinghiale pan drippings ~

Finally, it was time to head to Montepulciano and environs – Cortona included.  Ever since publishing this article a few years back, Montemercurio has been on my radar.  I wish it were easier to find in the US because it is outstanding and very affordable. When I saw it on the wine list at our lunch in Montepulciano, there was no question.  We also had a wonderful wine from Talosa.  The values in Montepulciano are immense but you have to look for them. They don’t come from the big houses.

~ Messaggero is a Cru Nobile from Montemercurio and is an outstanding wine ~

After lunch, we headed to our appointment at Boscarelli.  Again, I find the entry level wines here to be well crafted but rather pedestrian.  But as you elevate into the IGT blends and the Cru Nobile, the wines sing.  We caught them in the midst of harvest as well.  In fact, the owner spent some time with us – when he wasn’t pushing down the cap himself!

~ Pumping over Sangiovese in Boscarelli ~

Ladies and gentlemen, that’s Luca Ferrari in the beige jacket pushing down the cap on his 25 Prugnolo Gentile.  And yes, he was essentially dressed to the nines, at least for winery work and it was noticed by several guests.  Sharp dressed GQ man….

Later that afternoon we cruised over to Cortona.   The sights in the Val di Chiana valley were bucolic.  It is a major area for sunflower cultivation.

~ Oceans of sunflowers span the Val di Chiana. As they dry and fall over, they are then cut for the seeds to make oil ~

Cortona is far flung. So despite the notoriety from books and movies, the town was busy but not inundated.

~ Cortona Town Hall ~

The Tour was a wonderful success with an excellent group of characters.  I am re-energized each year I do this as it creates life long bonds and friendships – often times across the globe. I am the richer for it and I hope my guests are as well.  I know they are, but I stay humble.

Until the next….alla prossima.