~ Enoteca di Piazza is the best source for Brunello in Montalcino ~
Brunello 2019 is a masterful vintage. And with good reason. My in-depth coverage of the vintage put a spotlight on many excellent wines as well as discussing the missteps that occurred. And there always are some. In 19, the key issues producers needed to navigate were over ripeness and alcohol levels. Balance was paramount. And no vintage is ever a guarantee. 2019, was no exception. As abv. levels routinely hit 15%, winemakers needed to ensure balance in order to produce enjoyable wines.
It’ll be interesting to watch these wines develop, especially as they sit in your cellar while the 2020s and now 2021s slowly come to market. But it’s not just the 2021s that are taking their time. Many 2019s, for various reasons, were released late. Whether it was purposeful, or incidental (i.e. supply chain/distributor issues) there are many wines only now becoming widely available. I am focusing on a handful of them today.
~ The San Lorenzo Estate ~
Podere San Lorenzo was established in 1960 by the current owner’s Grandfather, Bramante. This tiny producer to the southwest of Montalcino, sits on 7 hectares in total; completely planted to Sangiovese. The vineyard parcels once belonged to Argiano, but were too far flung to be properly cared for by them. So, in came Bramante. He planted the original 2 hectares in 1972 and the rest followed in 2018.
Today, the estate is run by Luciano Ciolfi and his sister Luciana. Together they embrace the heritage that began in the 1960s. Luciano’s focus is the wine while Luciana works more in the cellar. They share duty in the vineyards.
~ Brother and Sister inspecting the vines ~
The 2019 San Lorenzo Brunello is a really pretty wine. Textbook color. Textbook aromas. Crushed flowers, crushed berry and soft hints of sandalwood mark the nose. In the mouth, this wonderfully elegant wine glides effortlessly on your palate with perfectly integrated tannins. The tactile nature is amazing. Powdery, flinty, mouth watering. Wild berry, sweet pipe tobacco and warm, powdery soil are delicious. This is really great. I’ll be visiting the estate next month and will share more data points. 93 points. Find this wine at Enoteca di Piazza. Use Coupon Code “FODERA” to save 10% on your total order. No limits. No exceptions. You can also check it out here: Wine Solutions.
~ A really attractive Brunello that is fairly priced ~
Fabio Tassi is fixture in Montalcino. Since 1910, the Tassi family has farmed vineyards in Montalcino. Today, the estate and it’s 7 hectares of vineyards are shepherded by Fabio Tassi who has steered the ship since 2002. The family has an extensive presence in town; from owning various shops, to trattoria and the enoteca in the Fortezza, it seems they are everywhere you look. But there is a reason for that. Quality, in everything they do.
~ Winemaker, Fabio Tassi ~
The 2019 Tassi Vigna Colombaio Brunello is nearly perfect. Hailing from a single vineyard of the same name, the wine is slowly macerated and aged only in large Slavonian botte. Traditional winemaking all the way. The aromatics are pure and bountiful. Cherry, vibrant floral notes, turned earth and just a hint of soft spice from the aging botte give this wine immediate appeal. My wife took a sniff and immediately said- “that’s amazing”. I knew we were in for a treat because that is not typical for her.
On the palate, the Tassi commands attention but also pulls back to let you appreciate its impact. Powerful yet refined. Deserving your attention but not seeking it. Pure flavors. Perfectly balanced acidity and tannins. Dark cherry, porcini, powdered coffee bean and cigar leaf are a unique experience. This single vineyard wine is from the Castelnuovo dell’Abate – one of my favorite area for Brunello. 97 points. Production is limited and rarely imported. Buy this directly from the winery or at the Fortezza in Montalcino. As a slight added bonus, it was nice to see this wine clock in at 13.5%. It can be done!
~ This is an amazing wine ~
Capanna has long been a favorite of mine. Owned by the Cencioni family since 1957, Capanna sits just north of Montalcino near the Montosoli hill. The first vintage was 1960 and at that time Giuseppe became one of the founding members of the Consorzio. Today, the estate is comprised of 24 hectares in total. Twenty are devoted to Sangiovese while the balance is Merlot (1 hectare) and Moscato. Paolo Vagaggini is the consulting winemaker.
With the 2019 vintage, the Brunello Cru “Nicco” was created. Here is my review of the wine at pre-release. Now, almost two full years later, this wine has matured as I hoped it would. You can see in this picture that the color has lightened a bit since release. But the sapid, savory character of this wine has not. Wild berry, sweet herbs, toasted vanilla, pipe tobacco and and fresh fennel mark the nose and palate. It’s juicy, fresh and vibrant. Really great stuff and hard to imagine it getting better. I would try this now if you have it. I’ll hold my last bottle another 2-3 years and see where it goes. 96 points. Find this wine at Enoteca di Piazza.
~ Nicco is a Cru Brunello that sets itself apart ~
Casanova di Neri is routinely one of my favorite producers. I’ve known Giacomo Neri for a long time and we visited his cantina a few years back. The estate lies on the northern side of the Montalcino hill, but is generally at lower altitudes. That, and the combination of Giacomo’s style often lead to richer, darker wine. The family’s vineyards are spread throughout the zone. Here is my review for the 2019 “Etichetta Bianca” Brunello. Today, I’m reviewing the Tenuta Nuova.
The 2019 Casanova di Neri Brunello Tenuta Nuova existed as a Cru long before Crus were fashionable. The wine is aged in 500 liter Tonneaux for 30 full months and then 18 months in bottle before release. The vineyard source sits on the southern side of Montalcino that is heavy with galestro and rocks. This generally results in a complex, structured and age-worthy wine. That’s what we’ve got here.
Powerful. Yet elegant. It’s not easy to pull off but great vineyards do it. And this wine is so special. Bright crushed red berry on the nose is accented with toasted spices, vanilla, espresso bean and fennel. Flavors follow the aromas but the beauty of this wine is the overall mouthfeel. It’s got everything perfectly aligned. Acid, tannin, fruit, minerality, powdered nuance. It’s nimble but still full bodied. The “pro-tip” take away, approach it closer to cellar temperature because it is rich. 15.5% rich and its more enjoyable cooler. 96 points. Find this wine at Enoteca di Piazza.
~ Tenuta Nuova is consistently among the top Brunello in each vintage for me ~
These recent tastings confirm something for me. 2019 is real. I knew it was, of course. But these wines are continuing to improve and add complexities. But what’s more, they never have seemed to shut down. Or at least they haven’t yet. As 2021 samples are arriving in full force now, I’ll be focusing on them and won’t get back to many 19s until the end of this year. I will be very curious to see where they are at that point.
Salute!
