Over the last 20 years or so, the number of Brunello producers has grown by the hundreds. Producers that used to sell their grapes are now bottling their own wine while others have been encouraged to export their wine where previously it was consumed only locally. It seems that a new producer crops up each vintage.
That being said, there are countless “Old Guard” producers, that while not necessarily traditional in terms of style, are giants in the name of Brunello. Costanti stands among them. Indeed, no fewer than six generations of Conti-Costanti have been turning out excellent Brunello, and this current version, is no exception.
The 2006 Costanti Brunello di Montalcino is gorgeous to look at, with its deep black red color and violet reflections. The wine was decanted to remove a trace sediment and the aromas penetrated the room from inside the decanter. Anise, ripe cherries, earth, herbs and sweet pipe tobacco combine in a wonderful harmony. On the palate the wine is lively and concentrated, with sweet ripe fruit, a delicious olive component and great tannic and acid structure. This is drinking very well now and was delicious with grilled flank steak, but clearly, it can cellar for 8-10 years without issue where I have no doubt, it will become even more complex and meditative. Simply outstanding. 94 points, about $45.
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| The Casottino Vineyard on the Costanti Estate |
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| An Amazing Brunello: 2006 Costanti |
December 4, 2012
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