~ Brunello 2019 is a vintage worth stockpiling ~
When a vintage like Brunello 2019 receives a great deal of positive coverage early on, it’s easy to be disappointed when the finished wines arrive to market. But in the wake of Benvenuto Brunello, it was clear to me that 2019 was for real. Nothing in my many tastings since has made me doubt that conclusion. 2019 is a vintage to stockpile.
This article represents the 4th and final installment of my annual coverage. Further data points will be reserved exclusively for Newsletter Subscribers. The previous parts can be accessed here: Brunello Part 3.
I Vini di Brunello
The estate of Castiglion del Bosco dates back to the 1200’s and has the dubious reputation for paying the highest property taxes in all of the Sienese republic. Over the centuries, the estate has been conquered several times; eventually ending up in the hands of luxury product producer, the Ferragamo family.
Today the estate covers almost 2,000 hectares in the northwestern portion of the Brunello zone, but most of that is devoted to forest and resort like amenities. There are 62 hectares of vineyards.
~ Remains of an ancient tower on the Castiglion del Bosco Estate ~
The 2019 Castiglion del Bosco Brunello “Campo del Drago” is a single vineyard wine from only 1 1/2 hectares. At 430 meters above sea level, and in a vineyard filled with clay, this is a structured masculine red. The grapes mature slowly here. Even in 2019, harvest began the 12th of October.
Dark ruby in the glass, the wine presents a gorgeous array of colors. Immediately you notice that the nose is tight. This really needs decanting, but I had Coravined it knowing it would be massive. Faint aromas of flowers and baking spices present themselves over a core of ripe wild cherry tones. On the palate the wine is more approachable but largely scaled. Fresh, juicy wild cherry flavors dominate notes of pepper and bergamot. Dusty, shaley tannins are attractive but need time to integrate. Not sorry I tried it, but needs 5 years minimum. 95+ points. Find this wine at Enoteca di Piazza and save 10% with my Coupon Code “FODERA“.
~ The Campo del Drago Cru is impressive and quite distinctive compared to the Estate Brunello ~
La Fiorita has had a brief but tumultuous history. Since 1992, when the estate was created, it has changed ownership several times. But, since 2011, it has been in the custody of Natalie Oliveros.
Since that time, Natalie has put her own ambitious stamp on the project. She’s expanded vineyards, attained organic certification, re-designed labels, changed importers, hired a new winemaker and wine consultant. Her aim is singular; she wants to make great Brunello. And beginning with the 2018 vintage, she’s making big strides. The estate is now a small 9 hectares and produces about 32,000 bottles of Brunello per year.
The 2019 La Fiorita Brunello is a vibrant, bright ruby in the glass. Boisterous aromas of crushed cherry, new leather, flowers and toasted baking spices are prominent. And in an odd way, the aromas smell “juicy”. That sensation emerges on the palate. Ripe, crushed cherry flavors are juicy, fresh and persistent. The hints of Christmas Cake spices, toasted nuts and fresh savory herb are wonderful. This is fresh, charming and outgoing. Dare I say it reminds me of Natalie? I really enjoyed how fresh this wine was and it remains a nice value. 94 points. Find this wine at Enoteca di Piazza and save 10% with my Coupon Code “FODERA“. If you want a more ethereal experience, check out La Fiorita’s “NO” wine.
~ This Brunello takes on Natalie’s personality ~
The next estate has roots belonging to Biondi Santi lineage. What became La Gerla was purchased in 1976 by Sergio Rossi who sadly passed away in 2011. The estate remains in the family and today is managed by his wife Donatella. Vittorio Fiore is the consulting enologist. The estate extends over 15 hectares; 11.5 of which are vines and 2.5 of which are olive groves.
The 2019 La Gerla “Pieve” Brunello is a brilliant dark ruby. Huge black cherry aromas are back by sandalwood and exotic spices. In the mouth, it’s just stunning. Sapid, mouth watering juicy flavors of wild, sour cherry are long and fresh. Sweet fennel, sweet herb and coffee bean provide support. The tannins are quite assertive right now. I’ll let my remaning bottles hit age 8-10 at least. I love this as much as I did at Benvenuto. 96 points easy with the chance to go higher. Find this wine.
~ I firmly believe that many Cru Brunello are values and often deliver quality and complexity at the Riserva level. I think the lack of the extra year in wood keeps the wines fresher ~
Celestino Pecci began his estate in 1968. He was born after the war in a small farmhouse not far from the Romanesque Abbey near Sant’Antimo. At the time, farmers were flocking to the cities in search of work and the family were share croppers. Eventually, they managed to acquire 40 hectares of land and planted their vineyards. Today, the winemaking is handled by Tiziana Pecci, with the watchful eye of Celestino never far.
The 2019 Celestino Pecci Brunello is drop dead gorgeous. Wow! Deep garnet. Deeply floral with intense crushed cherry aromas. Sweet herbs too. On the palate this is simply another wow! Bright, juicy and fresh with succulent wild cherry fruit in perfect balance. Racy and refined. The tannins are so seamlessly woven that they appear absent, yet they are powdery and this has good structure. I’m very impressed. 97 point. Find this wine.
~ This is a wonderful Brunello that is racy and fresh ~
The next wine is the big brother of the estate brunello. At this point, I think I prefer the prior wine a smidge.
The 2019 Celestino PecciCru Poggio al Carro Brunello is a single vineyard wine from a 1.5 hectare plot. The main differences between the two wines are these: the former gets 36 months aging in a mixture of barrel sizes, comes from SW facing vineyards and ages for 36 months. Poggio al Carro is North East facing, ages exclusively in 35 hectoliter vats and ages for 40 months.
This is a deep ruby color with darker reflections. The flavor profile is very similar but the difference here is the weight and texture of the wine. Ripe cherry aromas and flavors are tinged with hints of rosemary and eucalyptus. There’s only a .5% difference in the abv. but at 15% this feels notable. I’d like to see how this wine develops with age but for now, it needs something like the dry aged steak pictured below. It’s also no bargain. 93 points. Find this wine.
~ This is a bigger, riper wine than the estate Brunello ~
I was told by a wonderful winemaker that makes amazing Sangiovese; “Giovanni, Classico is Classico for a reason!” While I know that Le Due Porte has it’s fans among my readers, for me the Estate Brunello has always captured the essence of what Il Palazzone is.
2019 Il Palazzone Estate Brunello: In the glass, this is a classic, gorgeous ruby color. The aromatics are wonderful. Pure, vibrant cherry dominates, but there are roses and lavender, newly mown grass and hints of sweet fennel. On the palate, the wine is juicy, lively and boisterous. Wild berry dances nimbly and is accented with roasted nuts, flaky minerals and hints of basil. The best Il Palazzone in some time. Available directly from the winery or here with my Coupon Code. 97 points.
~ This is a very special Brunello from a good family ~
Vigna La Casaccia is a new winery owned by the children of Leopoldo Franceschi (owner of Il Poggione), Daughter Flavia and son Federico farm 15 hectares near Cinigiano. It’s an area of Brunello filled with maritime deposits, schist, marl and limestone. The nature of those elements impacts the wine greatly. Selection is severe and the sibling’s intent is to make a premium Brunello. They are succeeding.
The 2019 La Cassacia Brunello is a dark, medium ruby. Beautiful, seamless aromas of crushed red fruits, toasted spices, fresh flowers and coffee grind. I love it. On the palate it struts that minerality and continues its impressive showing. It’s tannic, but there is so much going on. Crushed berry, fresh fennel, ripe pomegranate and sweet tobacco. The powdery texture of this wine is amazing. I’m blown away. Best wine ever from this young, up and coming estate. Continue the watch! 97 points. Find this wine at Enoteca di Piazza and save 10% with my Coupon Code, “FODERA“.
~ The 2019 is the best wine so far from this young estate which bottled its first vintage in 2017 ~
La Poderina was sold years ago to Saigricola and many thought it would be the demise of this once prolific estate. However, the team was kept in place and Riccardo Cotarella brought in to oversee production. The results have been a consistent, more modern style of Brunello.
The 2019 La Poderina Brunello is a medium ruby in color. Exotic aromas. Baking spices, iron, crushed wild cherry and fresh flowers make this very compelling and enjoyable to smell. The palate is fresh and lively but at this time a bit one dimensional. I sense time will help this express more on the palate because the balance is wonderful and the fruit so pure and delicious. This is a good value too. 93 points. Find this wine at Enoteca di Piazza and use my 10% off Coupon: “FODERA“.
~ Always a solid bottle of red ~
Antonio Zaccheo may very well be the most underrated winemaker in Montalcino. The head of operations for Carpineto, Zaccheo also crafts high quality wines from Chianti Classico and Montepulciano. His single vineyard Vino Nobile are well kept secrets and some of the best wines from the zone.
Carpineto’s vineyards in Montalcino are some of the highest in the appellation and sit approximately 1,400 feet above sea level. The farm consists of preserved stone buildings, olive groves and 25 acres of north-west facing vineyards surrounded by forest that shelters the vines from the harsh winds that come north from Maremma.
The 2019 Carpineto Brunello is a dark ruby color. There are some copper highlights at the edge of the bowl. To me, this is classic, old school Brunello. Bright berry, sandalwood and toasted nuts mark the nose of this attractive red. On the palate, the wine glides effortlessly; the symbiosis between acid, fruit and tannin nearly perfect. Chestnut, wild berry, rosemary and turned earth make this yearn for the table. Give it 3-5 years to flesh out more. 93 points. Find this wine at Enoteca di Piazza.
~ The 2019 has some gravitas. Give it some time in the cellar ~
The Camigliano Estate was acquired by the current owners in 1957 who immediately set about creating a high quality Tuscan wine making estate. Today there are 220 acres under vine with about 125 of those dedicated to the production of Brunello. Camigliano is always a solid, affordable Brunello. It rarely wows me, but it’s always well made. I think this is true of the 2019, but as a rising tide lifts all boats, so too did 19 lift Camigliano.
The 2019 Camigliano Brunello is a medium ruby color. Dusty red fruits emerge from the glass but take some coaxing. With time, flowers and dried herbs join the ensemble. In the mouth, this is an easy drinking Sangiovese. Pure, juicy fruit is the main attraction with baking spices and hints of tobacco leaf too. It’s so approachable that I don’t see any point in cellaring it. But why would you want to? 90 points and affordable. Find this wine.
~ Always a good entry level Brunello, the 2019 is better than recent vintages for this estate ~
With that, Part 4 is in the books and this will be the last major part that publishes on the website. I still have some 2019s to review, but they will go directly to my Newsletter Subscribers and Followers on X. Are you in?
Salute!
