Ask anyone to name a wine growing region in central Italy and 90% will name Tuscany. Justifiably so. Very few will name Umbria and fewer than that will give mention to the hilltop town of Montefalco. That is a shame for them, but for my readers, quite the fortune.
I’ve written about Sagrantino before; specifically the wines of Colpetrone. They are delicious and deserving of their DOCG status. I’ve also enjoyed Sagrantinos from Antonelli and Caprai, but until I tasted Tabarrini, I had no idea that Sagrantino could stand among the greatest wines in the world.
Tabarrini is a family owned winery in Montefalco, Central Umbria, that has been growing wine grapes for centuries. Initially a working farm that sold crops, Tabarrini also sold grapes to larger producers making wine for local consumption. Now under the leadership of Giampaolo Tabarrini, the estate is producing some of the best wines Umbria and Italy have to offer. Central to their production are 3 separate Sagrantinos. I recently enjoyed the 2006 Colle alle Macchie Sagrantino di Montefalco.
On Giampaolo’s recommendation, we had thick NY strip steaks grilled rare, pan roasted rosemary scented potatoes, and broccoli di rabe. I decided to decant the wine for about 45 minutes. The first thing that strikes you when see the wine is the color. It is an impenetrable black. It is the darkest wine I think I have ever seen. Sagrantino is known for the deep colors that can be extracted from its skins, but this is something else. In the glass, the taster is treated to an absolute array of aromas. Huge, crushed, black fruit aromas are rich and almost tactile. There is fresh leather, pipe tobacco, sweet spices, lavendar, smoke and fennel. The French oak is evident, but elegantly integrated. It frames, without being intrusive. The wine is so complex in its aroma that it almost begs you not to sip. But you won’t have the discipline… In the mouth, the wine is as big as you would expect. Everything is elevated, boisterous without being pretentious. It mirrors Giampaolo’s personality. There are masses of black fruits that cover your palate. Fully ripened and concentrated, yet fresh and invigorating. The fruit is accented by pipe tobacco, gravelly brown turned earth, a floral tonality, and hints of espresso and licorice. It is spellbinding.
The substantial tannins noticeably assert themselves on the finish. They are chewy, and represent a forceful presence on the inside of your cheeks. The steak tamed these enough to enjoy the wine – that’s testimony to the balance created by the winemaker and the quality of the vintage. Yet you will know this wine will only improve with cellaring. It’s getting buried in the cellar, and will be the subject of a TuscanVines “CellarNote” in five years time. An absolutely eye opening and monumental wine. 98 points, about $45. Just look at the color of this:
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| 2006 Tabarrini Colle Alle Macchie Sagrantino di Montefalco |
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This is the first in a series of tastings featuring the Tabarrini Sagrantinos. Future reports will focus on the 2007 Campo alla Cequa and the 2006 Colle Grimaldesco Sagrantinos. I will also be reporting on Tabarrini’s Rosso di Montelfaco.
Additionally, don’t miss my interview with owner & winemaker Giampaolo Tabarrini. That will be published later this week. He is as energetic and passsionate as they come, and that passion comes through in the interview.
Allora……
John, I'll be looking forward to the interview with Giampaolo Tabarrini. The 2006 Colle alle Macchie Sagrantino di Montefalco sounds and looks wonderful, but I haven't seen this anywhere.
How does the Sagrantino wines compare with Sangiovese wines? Are they similar? More tannic?
I don't think I've had the occasion to try this varietal.
New blog Template, and I love the photo of the vineyard.
Dennis,
Thanks for the comments. It was more of a project than I imagined getting a custom image sized to fit this website but a friend of mine helped me out. At least now it's got a Tuscan background! π
On the Sagrantino, I would not equate it at all with Sangiovese. It's much bigger, in every respect. It's clearly unique. If I had to draw a comparison – only in terms of "body" I'd say it's similar to Petite Sirah. Sagrantino is the most tannic grape in the world. It's also the darkest. Genetic testing has show it to have the highest concentration of polyphenols of any grape. But when it's done well, it's huge, powerful, yet elegant and retains it's Italian roots. (unlike Petite Sirah which never seems to come from anywhere)
On Tabarrini, I will email you separately. Please have a look.
John
Thanks John!
Oh, I did check my e-mail and it seems to be OK, but try at: Settermnnh@aol.com
If this works, just ignore my e-mail to you.
Dennis
Dennis,
Check your email again. I think I had left off one of the letters.
Thanks,
John
Ah, Sagrantino…
It's hard to find this varietal here because people have no idea what it is. That's too bad because it's usually awesome. And HUGE, which I love. Anyway, I have a blend that I'm not touching for a bit & I have a 100% domestic Sagrantino that I picked up in Santa Barbara. (That makes me sound SO cool, eh?)
There's not a lot of it though. If you read (maybe you have) the email with G. Tabarrini, we discussed the problem of it's notoriety and availability. I guess that's why idiots in CA try to produce it! π They'll likely turn it into an over oaked, high alcohol Zin wannabe… No interest…… Makes me sound SO snobby eh? π
I was referring to just picking something up in Santa Barbara. I would've said the same thing if I'd been talking about a pair of socks, given that Santa Barbara is so posh.
I'm very aware that Sagrantino is rare. I can barely keep up with blogs, much less an email from a winery I don't work with (& even then, that can be a stretch), so no, I haven't read it, nor have I gotten to the interview. I have no doubt that the wine is outstanding. I'll get to it when I get to it.
I do disagree with you on the "idiots" in CA. If everyone thought that way, we might never have had the success that we do in domestic wines. I mean, the French thought that American wines were a joke, & we showed them otherwise. I will always support American winemakers in their quest to make it work here, even if I don't think it will. For example, there is a winery or two here in MO that tried to grow Pinot Noir – they didn't have a prayer, but they tried (& failed, but still, they gave it a shot). If it had worked, the end result wouldn't have been the same as France, OR, or CA…& that's ok. We're making Blanc de Blanc & Blanc de Noirs in New Mexico, for cryin' out loud – & they're incredible. I do love a good renegade!
Sagrantino is not & probably will not ever be grown widely in CA. Italian wines, other than Chianti, Pinot Grigio & maybe one or two other varietals, are generally a tough sell. The bottle I picked up was from the first in the country to make it, Mosby. The winemaker works in both Italy & California, & he tended those Sagrantino cuttings very carefully for a long time before he made any wine from them. In my opinion, it's spot on to its Italian roots. Nothing like what you described. I'm proud to have it & am looking forward to when we open it. Hell, I may even blog about it…but that would require time, & as I've said, I'm spread pretty thin these days.
I *do* agree that it isn't comparable to Sangiovese & more like Petite Sirah. Its tannins are right up there with Tannat, in my opinion. Tannins don't scare me!
Well, you go girl! π I love a loud spirited defense of CA. What can I say, I'm somewhat of a traditionalist. CA wines from CA – Italian wines from Italy. π I realize that CA grapes are all imported originally, but I just appreciate more what they do best. My idiots comment was hyperbole of course. I often rail about CA Sangiovese, Barbera and Nebbiolo. Those things are fine, but I prefer the originals. No crime in that.
Don't spread to thin…Marmite and all.
Claire – when I said "email" above, I meant the interview on this site. Chalk it up to too much Boyd&Blair. π