The Butcher of Panzano

As I’ve previously written, Castellina in Chianti is about as picturesque a Tuscan hill town as you will come across.  For us, it holds special meaning as it’s home to Andrea Cecchi and his winery.  We met Andrea on the steps of the Church, in the piazza as is the customary gathering place.  We were meeting for dinner and Andrea wished to show us “Chianti through his eyes”….

For the next six plus hours this warm, gracious and generous friend led us on a remarkable excursion that included not only a tour of his estate vineyards and winery, but of every corner of Chianti.  It was, without question,  one of the highlights in a trip filled with wonderful moments. 

Winding through the roads of Chianti can be hungry work and firmly in his charge, we decided to stop in Panzano to visit the renowned butcher, Dario Cecchini – as Andrea called him, “The Crazy Butcher of Panzano”.

Larger than life, with the boisterous, energetic personality to match,  Dario has been featured in Food & Wine, The New Yorker, The New York Times, Bon Appetit and scores of other publications in addition to various appearances on gourmet related television shows. 

He is an expert at his craft.  After taking over from his Father,  he continues to lovingly butcher only two animals,  cows and pigs.  Nothing more.  He says lovingly because to Cecchini,  it’s an honor to butcher an animal. It’s a privilege and he insists on using every piece of the animals he butchers.  Nothing is wasted. 

By day, Cecchini runs his butcher shop.  By night, the counter is closed,  but the foyer is opened to the town, to passersby in what can only be called a roving party.  Crostini lathered with Dario’s own lardo,  cured meats, olives, and homemade wine are offered for the price of a smile.  It’s a jovial fun atmosphere and when we ran into winemaker Marco Pallanti, from Castello di Ama,  the die was cast.  We were going to visit Dario’s restaurant – the “Officina”.

For reasons passing understanding – and I can only attribute it to the great company of the evening – I didn’t take a single picture of the menu that was presented.  We were drinking, laughing, and sharing the banter of Marco and Andrea – absorbing the conversation like a sponge and were simply immersed in beef. 

The menu is performed like a stage show each night.  Horns announce courses, the dishes are announced in Italian, the Squadra is presented for curtain calls. The Menu…….. 

As I mentioned, Andrea had retrieved several bottles of wine from his cellar to bring for dinner.  Each one was seemingly better than the next.  Quality is quickly on the rise at Cecchi.  With Andrea at the helm along with his brother Cesare,  the pair are propelling Cecchi forward.   

The 2010 Villa Cerna Chianti Classico Riserva was everything I’ve come to expect from this wine.  A blend of 90% Sangiovese and 10% Colorino from estate vineyards in Castellina,  this wine harmoniously combines power and elegance. It’s deep ruby in the glass with almost black reflections.  Redolent aromas of crushed berry, herbs and new leather fan from the glass.  The flavors follow the aromas and the wine is medium to full bodied with ripe, dusty tannins – like the white road that runs directly past the vineyard.  I’ve had this wine a few times now and it consistently impresses. 92 points, about $25 in the US.  Find it!

Cecchini may well have the ultimate Italian Steak House.  His legend precedes him.  It is well deserved.  His restaurant and his Maccelleria are absolute must visits for those in Panzano.