~ Senza parole. Brunelleschi’s Duomo ~ Used under permission; Photo Credit, Tim Heath, CEO Ramblin’ Medici
From rustic farm tables to sun-drenched vineyards, Tuscany charms at nearly every turn. Yet when I’m wandering its countryside alone or leading the Rustic Tuscany Tour, I’m often so focused on the scenery and the people around me that I overlook the simple pleasures that make this region unforgettable. Today, I’d like to linger on those pleasures.
~ Daily tasks in Montepulciano ~
As I wrote recently, the Contucci family’s Palazzo stands on the Piazza Grande in Montepulciano directly across from the Town Hall. It’s almost impossible to visit Montepulciano and miss it. Step inside and you are transported back to the year 1100. Sit and enjoy their amazing wines, but the magic here is in the pairing.
~ Tasting at Contucci comes with a variety of locally produced delicacies ~
There is no better way to savor Nobile than to do so with product grown within sight of town. Aged and young Pecorino Toscana, crusty bread with Estate Extra Virgin Olive Oil, capicollo, salame and prosciutto Toscana are the perfect marriage. In fact, on the last Tour, I made a point to savor several different Tuscan Prosciutto and I have to say, I think I now prefer it to Parma. That might get me some sneers – but I’m ok with that. It’s not as sweet. It’s not as salty. Pass the prosciutto.
Another wonderful feature of the Rustic Tuscany Tour is that we often catch harvest work in progress. Click the link below for a behind the scenes glance at Sangiovese production.
Pumping Over at Poggio Stenti
It’s impossible to travel through Tuscany and not see Panzanella. In the simplest of explanations, it’s bread salad made with day old (not stale!) bread. Like everyone has a Nonna, every Nonna’s recipe is best. What’s the recipe? Well, it varies with every Nonna. I like to say, the best one is the one I’m eating!
The version below has bread, celery, basil, tomato and onion. One thing that varies as much as the ingredients is the size and texture of the bread. I like the one below, where the bread is about the size of small croutons. But I’ve had versions where the chop is so small that the bread resembles cous cous.
~ Panzanella at Le Potazzine in Montalcino. The ultimate peasant dish ~
One thing Tuscany is never short of is “Tramonti,” or sunsets. I’ve taken pictures of many over the years from throughout the region. I’m a sucker for them, praise be. The one below is the most recent and was taken at the Mate Estate.
~ Sunset from Podere il Falconaio, Mate ~
Another thing Tuscany has in abundance is dramatic vistas. Tenuta il Poggione was a new addition to the Rustic Tuscany Tour this September. It’s a gorgeous property that is tucked away in serene seclusion. It’s a bit oxymoronic given that Il Poggione is among the largest producers in Montalcino.
~ This panorama was taken this September from the hospitality patio at Tenuta il Poggione ~
The visit cemented what I already knew. Il Poggione makes amazing wines at all price points. Their Rosso di Montalcino is excellent and their Riserva Vigna Paganelli is one of Tuscany’s best.
~ Peeking inside the barrel aging cellar at Il Poggione ~
Here is another video of Harvest at Poggio Stenti this September.
Sangiovese Arrriving at Poggio Stenti
You know, Tuscan food is rustic, peasant simplicity. Maybe that’s why I enjoy it so much. It doesn’t feature sauces with 10 or 12 ingredients that take hours to make. It’s often 1 or 2 ingredients that become the star of the dish. As a result, the main ingredient must be perfect. Fresh, ideal. One such dish is Bruschetta al Pomodoro.
~ Bruschetta al Pomodoro in Castellina in Chianti ~
If you can’t find perfectly ripened, sweet and juicy tomatoes, I implore you – make something else. The above was my lunch this past June. Look at the color on those tomatoes! Dress with nothing but your best extra virgin oil, a bit of salt and pepper. It needs nothing more. No onion. No vinegar. Magica!
Of course there is pasta throughout Tuscany. Dishes are as varied as the seasons. Vegetables star in Spring and Summer. Porcini shines in Autumn. But what you can find year round is the classic Ragu Toscana – a meat ragu relying heavily on slow simmered beef and only a touch of tomato and of course, Ragu di Cinghiale.
The pasta shape is also important too. Long pasta dominates; pappardelle, tagliatelle, and Pici (or Pinci if you’re in Montalcino) but the shape is the same.
~ Pappardelle con zucchine e carotta in Montalcino this Spring ~
The dish below was one of the best things we ate on the Rustic Tuscany Tour. It was scented with saffron, woodsy from locally foraged porcini and slightly smokey from pancetta from the owner’s raised pigs.
~ Tagliatelle with crispy pancetta and porcini mushroom ~
And there is always Ragu Toscana. Slow simmered with beef as the star, this dish begins with a soffritto, some toasted tomato paste and very little tomato during the cooking process. Unctuous and delicious.
~ Light on tomato, focused on beef. The classic Tuscan ragu gives it self away by the color ~
Finally, while pasta may be the first thing you think of when it comes to Tuscan food, what many don’t realize is that Tuscans are meat eaters! The iconic Bistecca Fiorentina is everywhere. And with good reason.
~ The Fiorentina is the Porterhouse steak ~
Seasoned with only salt and black pepper, the Fiorentina is grilled over coals or vine cuttings and served “al Sangue” or “to the blood.” In other words, very rare. You can try to ask for your steak “piu media” if you want to. But I wouldn’t expect it medium. The Tuscans simply can’t help themselves and they’d rather you order something else. And don’t expect to find A-1 or the like laying around. The one and only “sauce” that is accepted is your best extra virgin olive oil. (like the below)
~ Another benefit of Rustic Tuscany is exclusive access to one of the most prestigious Frantoio in Tuscany ~
If you can get your hands on hours old Extra Vergine Olio, buy it at all costs.
~ Green gold ~
Are you ready for some Tuscany? What’s your favorite dish? I can tell you one thing – with the weather turning colder, this Classic Tuscan Zuppa will be on the menu in Castello Fodera.
Salute!
