~ The entrance to Cantina Punica ~
What do you get when you combine Giacomo Tachis, Tenuta San Guido, Cantina Santadi and the unique terroir of Sardinia?
Answer: A joint venture called Agricola Punica and repeated Tre Bicchieri awards!
In 2002, Agricola Punica purchased 370 acres divided between two sites: Barrua and Narcao, located in the southwest region of Sardinia. Even though the vineyards are situated in the DOC Carignano Del Sulcis area, the wines fall under the I.G.T. Appellation of Isola dei Nuraghi, a name that refers to the ancient stone buildings erected by the Nuragic civilization which shaped the island’s development until 238 B.C. when Sardinia was brought under the Roman Empire.
Today, Punica’s 65 hectares of vineyards lay inland from the coast and are comprised of Carignano, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Merlot and Syrah.
~ Vineyards of Argicola Punica ; visible are the scrub bushes and the whiteness of the soil, replete with sand from the ocean ~
Today we’re discussing the flagship wine of the Punica estate; Barrua. I can easily understand how wine lovers may have an issue with this wine. I would happily refer to it as a “Super Sardinian” because I think it’s easily among the best Sardinian wines I’ve had from the island. The trouble is, what does Sardinian terroir represent? What should a great Sardinian wine taste like? The island is enormous and is Italy’s third largest region after Sicily and Piedmont. As such, the terrain varies widely from desert, to snow peaked mountains and sandy vineyards. I’ve got only a working knowledge of wineries on the island; Pala, Punica and Argiolas. Yet all three have impressed. Cannonau is probably the islands most widely planted and widely known grape. Therefore, perhaps its absence in a premium wine is somewhat atypical. I can understand the criticism from some who may feel this wine is “international” but I have none to give. So I’ll leave it at that and entertain your thoughts in the comment section.
Barrua relies predominantly on Carignano which contributes 85% to the blend along with 10% Cabernet Sauvignon and 5% Merlot. Vinified in stainless steel, Barrua is aged for 18 months in French barrique, only 30% of which are new and then bottle aged for at least 12 months before release. We did not decant the wine, however I opened it about 45 minutes before dinner.
The 2011 Punica Barrua is a deep ruby color that lightens toward the rim of the bowl almost reminiscent in appearance to an aged Sangiovese. Offering bountiful aromas of red flowers, crushed plums, melted licorice, rosemary and leather, this complex array of scents portends a wonderful tasting experience and it delivers.
Crushed black plum fruit is silky and long on the palate which is accented with leather, fennel and other wild herb flavors. It’s ripe and round but fresh and lively. Nothing here is overdone. It was absolutely delicious with the tomatoes and reggiano that you see, but equally impressive with agnolotti with a lamb ragu. After dinner, it was interesting enough to be enjoyed by itself. Given the quality, it’s a value around $45 and easily something I would buy again. 94 points. Find this wine.
~ Barrua is an interesting blend and perhaps a Sardinian benchmark? ~
Salute!
John;
Sardegna has an enormous potential….but unfortunately even when you travel around Italy…it is not easy to see those regional wines listed .
Cannonau, Muristellu, Bovale Sardo, Cagnulari, Carignano, Monica, Vernaccia di Oristano….no one also in the World can imitates those grapes.
I agree. Pala makes wonderful wines from Bovale Sardo and Monica. Very much agree that with more investment we will see greater wines from the area.
the absence of Cannonau in Barrua is not atypical… Carignano is THE traditional grape of Sulcis, it is the main red variety in this part of the island and performs particularly well on these sandy soils. Carignano grown in Sulcis has a very specific profile and the best examples from this area are among the world’s greatest Carignano (same as Carignan in France and Mazuelo in Spain) wines produced.
Interesting Jim. Thanks for reading and chiming in. Would you consider this a very typical wine then, even with the addition of the Cab and Merlot?
Hello John. They could labeled it Carignano del Sulcis Doc (only 85% Carignano is required) but I would probably not considered it the most typical example of Carignano del Sulcis Doc… these are usually 95-100% Carignano. But, you can get the typical Carignano character grown in Sulcis even with 10% Cab+5% merlot. If you haven’t already tried I recommend Santadi Terre Brune or Rocca Rubia, they are among the most typical Carignano del Sulcis Doc.
I have very much enjoyed the Cantine Sardus Pater Arruga which is 100% Carignano. I found it to be a very unique wine that paired great with a strong grilled meat or game. Keep in the cellar waiting for a night I was grilling lamb with a spicy sauce and then finishing with an aged pecorino.
Definitely a different wine for those of us who try to live on Sangiovese !!! But we need variety. Need to try something else one night a week.
Have also enjoyed Cannonau wines from this unique island.
One night a week! Way to be Joe. Heh. Love it.
Hi John, I’m with Jim Georges on this one. Personally, I also prefer carignano over cannonau (but that is simply a matter of preference). Terre Brune is indeed very good (and also a Tachis wine, if I remember correctly).
THE flagship wine of Sardinia – also the most expensive one- would be the Turriga from Argiolas, which is a blend of both carignano and cannonau, and additional Bovale Sardo and Malvasia Nera in the mix
For the record, Tachis also consulted in the development of Turriga
Yes! I knew that about Turriga. How expensive is that now? I don’t recall it being over $50 or maybe I’m thinking of Korem?
Prices vary quite widely here in Europe, beginning somewhere around 45 euro up to 80 euro. It is not the easiest wine to source – I imagine it is somewhat the same in the US.
It’s about $50-$60 here and you can find it but you have to look.