~ Monte Baldo sits imposingly over vineyards on the San Leonardo Estate ~
Returning to San Leonardo is a trip through a looking glass. A rabbit hole to another time. The story is rich with tradition, history and intrigue. That story, begins in the year 1000.
It was then, that the Church of San Leonardo was first documented, but it was a full 600 years later before the Gresti family arrived at the estate. Then, in the late 19th century, the Gresti and Guerrieri families were joined by marriage. As a result, the birth of the modern day estate commenced. But it’s not just vinous history.
Historical Timeline
1000 ~ The Church of San Leonardo is built.
1646 ~ Records of the Gresti Family on the estate are found.
1890 ~ Marriage of Gemme Gresti and Tullo Guerrieri.
1918 ~ The Armistice for World War I is negotiated at Villa Gresti.
1943 ~ The German Army occupies Villa Gresti and uses it as Headquarters
1978 ~ First Cabernet vines are planted
1985 ~ Giacomo Tachis is hired as Enologist
2000 ~ Carlo Ferrini becomes Enologist
~ During the Second World War, the German Wehrmacht used Villa Gresti as Group Headquarters ~
The lineage here from a wine perspective is unparalleled. After collaborating with Sassicaia founder, Mario Incisa della Rocchetta, Cabernet was planted in 1978. Tachis then comes on the scene and refines the flaghsip wine. Since then, the estate boasts uncountable “Tre Biccheri” awards and upon Tachis’ retirement, rolls directly into Carlo Ferrini. There are few equals and the “Sassicaia of the North” moniker is well deserved. It has been a decade since I first sat down with Anselmo Guerrini Gonzaga to write about San Leonardo. I have seen him and chatted with him many times since. But the below, still remains one of my favorite exchanges. It perfectly illustrates the changing nature of history, aristocracy, birth and the undefeated passage of time.
TV: Anselmo, the Italian wine world, indeed all of the world of wine, lost a giant with the recent passing of Giacomo Tachis. He impacted so many great wines of Italy. What do you think San Leonardo owes him?
Anselmo: You chose the right word Giovanni. Tachis was a giant. A gaping hole that will never be replaced. Over the last 30 years, San Leonardo owes much to two outstanding figures; Tachis and now Ferrini. It was in 1984 that my father was offered the services of Giacomo Tachis by Piero Antinori and thank God that Tachis agreed! That collaboration succeeded 15 years, until 1999 when Tachis began to reduce his professional workload substantially. After that, Tachis recommended that a “rising brilliant exponent” replace him in his role as consultant, and that recommendation was none other than Carlo Ferrini. In fact, we are happy to have Carlo assisting us in the winery since that time. The interesting idea about Carlo is that he’s not only observing of the wines. He has a very strong background in agronomy and spends a great deal of time in the vineyards supervising the the practices of existing vineyards and overseeing new plantings.
There is another key person in our family estate. Tinelli? Yes, Luigino Tinelli. He was actually born here! and since 1970 has been at my father’s right hand. He works well with Carlo Ferrini and implements all that Ferrini may suggest. His technical expertise is crucial to the wines evolution and he has the priceless asset of the memory of wines we’ve produced for the last 40 years.
~ Luigi Tinelli ~
TV: Anselmo, the history of the estate and Villa are amazing. I’m a student of history, particularly of World War II. What has this estate been witness to?
Oh my Giovanni. This estate is living history! My ancestry began in the year 588 AD when Principessa Teodolinda the daughter of the King of Bavaria married Autari, the King of the Lombards. That was not completely documented. But in 900 AD the family has records of when the Bishop of Verona granted land in the “Trento Woods” to his colleague which would ultimately become this estate.
During World War I, the Villa Gresti served as the headquarters of the 29th Corps of the Italian Army. In 1918, Austrian representatives presented themselves blindfolded and were ushered into the headquarters where they requested an armistice. That effectively ended the war for Italy.
Later in World War II, the Nazi’s used the Villa for their Army headquarters as you note. Today there are still the numbers the Nazi’s put on top of each door to every room with a little plaque on each to divide everything up. We still have all the keys with the corresponding numbers on them too. On the estate there are some barracks they built which are now falling to pieces, but they kept the house in perfect condition. They even provided a list of damaged items to be repaired.
After the Germans left, the house was occupied by the Americans and then finally by the British. There were no British officers present and the men got a bit crazy. They even filled a piano with beer! It was quite crazy times.
~ The Team at work: Anselmo, Carlo Ferrini, Luigini Tinelli and others, working on the latest blends ~
The history is amazing, no question. But so too are the wines. For this article, I was sent the two most recent releases of the estate reds. Let’s get to it!
The 2021 Terre di San Leonardo is a deep garnet color and a more accessible expression of the estate’s terroir. A blend of mainly Cabernet and Merlot with a small amount of Carmenere, the wine is sourced from 20 year old vines. The quality here has increased markedly since the last time I tasted this wine and to me, that’s a mark of vineyard maturation.
Deep aromas of black plums, alpine herbs, toasted spices and forest permeate the nose of this attractive red. On the palate, the wine is silky and medium bodied with notes of black fruit peppered with savory herbs and powdered minerality to the tannins. The alpine limestone shaley quality from the melting snow that coats the vineyards from the Dolomiti are present here. It’s an aspect to these reds that I find truly unique. 91 points. Great value around $21. Find this wine.
~ Terre is a blend of Cabernet, Merlot and Carmenere ~
San Leonardo may well be the Sassicaia of the North and the title is well deserved. However, it’s not necessary. Not even a little bit. San Leonardo stands on its own and does so easily. It’s earned Tre Bicchieri every year it has been produced since 1988 with one exception, 1994. That simply doesn’t happen.
The 2020 San Leonardo is a blend of Cabernet, Carmenere and Merlot. Here the Carmenere exceeds the Merlot and on the nose, you can appreciate that sensation. Carmenere, when not grown properly, can yield very green, herbal aromas that if under ripe, can ruin a wine. For me, San Leonard succeeds.
The nose of the wine is utter joy. Black fruits, Alpine herbs, rosemary, lavender and toasted spices combine in one aromatic harmony. I love it! In the mouth, the wine is elegant and refined. It’s stately, like the estate and villa that give it birth. From 30-50 year old vines, this wine boasts of black fruit flavors, hints of those herbs, powdery tannins and notes of burnished leather. This is young of course, but not unapproachable, especially with the proper food. I have loved every vintage of this wine I’ve tried and still it’s a wonder I don’t buy it every year. I should. 94 points, the 2020 is released but many retailers show pre-arrival offers. Find this wine.
~ The color might appear lighter here, but the intensity is not ~
What Giacomo Tachis helped create, Carlo Ferrini and the team are carrying forward. Acquire and cellar some of these gems while the team is in place. The 2020 is great and I have a feeling the 2021 might be even better based on the “Terre” above.
Salute!
Excellent historical background on a wonderful winery. Pleased to report I hold a few bottles of the 2017 SL in my cellar, although it may still be a while before I pull a cork with them, feel they still have time to develop further.
Agreed Liam. I have some 2013. They can be held.