When you hear it, your ears should perk up and you should pay attention. Boo-Chur-Key-Ah-Lay.
Selvapiana has been making this wine, from the eponymous named vineyard, since 1983. The 1985 was legendary. That was the wine that turned me onto this vineyard. I commented as much to winemaker Federico Massetti at the recent Slow Wine tasting in Manhattan. When I spoke with him, he was a bit reserved at first, almost too humble to admit his wine was excellent. I told him that the 1985 was a benchmark for me and he smiled and blushed a bit. Then I smelled and tasted the 2009 and told him how amazing it was. He leaned forward and whispered to me, “it’s the best Bucerchiale I’ve made.”
This was the first wine I sought out after the Slow Wine event. I tweeted about it live that day. I praised it in my write up of the event and last night, I opened a bottle with Bucatini all’Amatriciana. The results were stunning.
The 2009 Selvapiana Chianti Riserva Vigneto Bucerchiale is a benchmark wine. It may be the best wine ever made in Rufina. It may be the best wine ever made by Federico Manetti. In the decanter, the wine is a deep, garnet red. In the glass there is little change to the color. The aromas are intense and complex. There’s flowers, mushrooms, ripe crushed berries, licorice and a hint of game and smoke. On the palate the wine is vibrant, with intense juicy fruit, licorice, dried herbs, tobacco, and a gorgeous persistent mouthfeel all the way through the long caressing tannin finish. Juicy acids keep the fruit fresh and vibrant the entire time. Harmonious balance. I used guanciale with the Bucatini and the smokiness in the pasta sauce brought out the smokey/meaty aspect in the wine brilliantly. 96 points. About $28. Buy all you can find.
February 21, 2013