I had planned to publish an article today reviewing a wonderful, new recently released Chianti Classico Riserva when the little diablo on my shoulder began to shout down my better angels. As an Italian wine journalist, I naturally taste and review a lot of wines. I analyze them, pick them apart, pair them with food, music, family and friends in order to provide my opinion as to the overall quality of a wine. After all, that’s the mission of Tuscan Vines.
However, those things are admittedly “reactive”. I think part of my sphere of responsibility extends to proactivity and that providing an opinion, which might be considered in charting the overall course of the wine landscape, is beneficial.
This morning, a fellow wine blogger reviewed a Gran Selezione from San Felice and I made note at the end of his review that although the wine was 80% Sangiovese, the balance contained no less than 5 other grapes! Therein lies the problem in my mind.
Why? What’s the big deal you say? Consistency. Clarity. Quality. Branding. The notion that something is special and worth seeking out.
Almost a year ago, I covered the Premiere Tasting for Gran Selezione. It was a wonderful event with dozens of excellent wines. But many of the Gran Selezione present were very expensive. Many were routinely about $50 and many bore three figure price tags. If a consumer is going to spend that amount of money on a wine, they should know what they’re getting and their expectations should be met.
Let’s examine the San Felice mentioned above. The wine is made from 6 different grapes: Sangiovese, Abrusco, Pugnitello, Malvasia Nera, Ciliegiolo and Mazzese. Imagine that someone buys this wine and really enjoys it, and then on a subsequent trip to their wine shop, they buy another “Gran Selezione” from a different producer.
Except now the bottle they buy is 80% Sangiovese and 20% Syrah. If they’re displeased with that wine, what might they think about the “Gran Selezione” designation? Or worse yet – what if the scenario is reversed? What if their first experience with Gran Selezione is a wine that’s 80% Sangiovese and 20% Cabernet or Merlot? A wine of that blend is likely to be more lush and “international” than the blend sported by the San Felice. Who does that benefit? The consumer? The Consorzio? Certainly not San Felice!
When I covered the Gran Selezione event last May, the wines I tasted were variously produced from over 11 different grape varieties in combinations and percentages too numerous to quantify. I wrote at the time:
“What is Chianti Classico? This is another concern that was voiced to me by more than a few people at the tasting. Typically, by people far less experienced than me. I was asked: “How do you compare these wines when they are so different?” It’s a major issue I think. They are very difficult to compare against one another. Why? Primarily it’s because almost anything goes in the production of Gran Selezione. Most of the Gran Selezione wines were produced solely from 100% Sangiovese. I applaud that. But not all were and by law they don’t need to be.”
The wines tasted that day were produced from the following in some fashion: Sangiovese (100%), Sangiovese, Canaiolo, Colorino, Malvasia Nera, Mammolo, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Petit Verdot, Merlot, Syrah and Alicante. That’s 11 different grapes if you’re counting and if we add the varieties present in the San Felice, the number jumps to 15!
Interesting take. I just ordered my first bottles of Gran Selezione from WTSO. 2011 Castelli del Grevepesa. Waiting anxiously for delivery and my initial tasting of this pretty highly rated wine. This is 100% Sangiovese which I was assumed was typical of all of the Gran Seleziones's…… in addition to the the other requirements you mentioned. However, even if the 100% requirement was in force, it would still be difficult to compare from estate to estate. Look how the Brunelli can vary from estate to estate based upon where in Montalcino and which hillsides the grapes are grown. But at least one variable would be removed if 100% was required for Gran Selezione. Let's hope the Consorzio will consider the stricter requirements that will at least lead us to more consistency.
Thanks for the information.
Bob
Bob, you're right. Brunello is a perfect example. It's the terroir and the style of the winemaker that is highlighted there. Brunello would face a similar identity crisis were it blending a dozen other grapes into the wine. It would ruin the brand in my opinion. I bet you got this wine: http://tuscanvines.blogspot.com/2015/10/lamole-gran-selezione.html?view=magazine
Interesting that they're now on the 2011. Enjoy!
That's the one. $19 and it looks like a steal. Just delivered to my office. Maybe something good to go with it tonight?!
I really enjoyed that wine so I'm curious how the 2011 will be. I didn't get any, but most of the 2011's I've had have been very nice. Not as "ripe" – relatively speaking as the 2011 Brunello seem. Enjoy! Lots of ideas for pairing on the Recipes page. 🙂 Thanks for reading and commenting Bob.
John, you ended with: "Consistency. Reliability. Unique quality bar none. That should be the goal and the Consorzio should lead us there!"
With the new "Gran Selezione" designation being the highest designation, it should also have the highest of standards, especially at some of the high prices.
Thanks again!
Cheers Dennis. I appreciate all your support and inspiration my friend.
Wise words. Issue is that some producers have created intrinsic value in their Riserva wines and some have created it away by using the IGT brand, therefore any alignment and consistency looks difficult.
In my eyes at least the San Felice wine uses native varieties although agree that doesn't help a consumer seeking out another comparable product.
Well said.
I agree and thanks for commenting. I didn't even address the value tied up in things like Flaccianello, Fontalloro, Percarlo, Tignanello, Cepparello, Le Pergole Torte and on and on. Many if not all of those could be Gran Selezione and most of these, to illustrate my point further, are 100% Sangiovese. You also have the other end of the spectrum where a producer like Monteraponi has removed the "riserva" designation from his Baron Ugo and is now labeling it IGT and bottling it in a Burgundy bottle. I agree with you though, any consensus appears to be difficult.
Thanks for reading and commenting!
I read with interst your article. I wanted to reply since few days, but we had the chianti classico collection and other tastings this week.
The fact to produce 100% Sangiovese is not possible for a legal issue. If we wish to have a 100 % Sangiovese Gran Selezione we should change all the DOCG rules (this will affect the Annata and Riserva too).
If you go back in the history Chianti has never been a single grape wine. Bettino Ricasoli recipe was Sangiovese, Canaiolo, Colorino other Tuscan red grapes and as well white grapes. We have abolish the white grapes to achieve a greater quality and longlastingness.
Making a 100% Sangiovese is neither traditional in Chianti.
Our less know grapes Canaiolo, Colorino, Malvasia Nera, Mammolo are great! And I think they are able to make a more traditional Chianti.
If we talk about not traditional grapes in the composition, I'm adverse to the addition, but right now it is difficult to change the DOCG appellation.
This is my point of view, even if I heard other producers from my area who wish to go in the direction of a 100% Sangiovese Gran Selezione.
Valeria, this would be good discussion over a bottle of Querciavalle, formaggio and pane, no? Thank you for your thoughts and for reading. Let me ask then, how do you feel about the Gran Selezione wines that are already 100% Sangiovese? Clearly they are legal within the DOCG, but I do understand how politically difficult it would be to change the laws. Grazie, tanto amica!
Gran Selezione 100% Sangiovese are legal within the DOCG, as you said in your reply (maybe I did not express properly in mine).
How do I feel about 100% Sangiovese Gran Selezione? I think that it is great that the Consorzio leave the freedom to express the Chianti Classico Gran Selezione according to the different "souls" of every producer! So, 100% Sangiovese Gran Selezione are welcome and they are great!
At the same time I think is important to preserve the variety of different grapes, to keep ancient and natives vines too. Italy and Tuscany are so reach of all those different grapes and we should be proud of them, as no other country has our variety.