Do you remember that I had a plan?
It’s been scantly more than a year since I rolled along the dusty roads in and around Montalcino searching for Azienda Caprili. I’m reflecting on what turned out to be an amazing day because back then I tasted a range of new wines with winemaker Giacomo Bartolommei; including his newest wine called Settimia. Named after Giacomo’s great grandmother, Settimia is 100% Vermentimo and that’s relevant because today I’m reporting on another new wine, which in a sense, could be Settimia’s alter ego.
~ The Caprili winery is completely gravity fed and was finished in time for the 2015 harvest ~
Both wines are 100% Vermentino, but that’s where the similarities stop. Settimia is produced entirely in stainless steel with grapes from Maremma. The Caprili Bianco is produced only with grapes from the Sant’Antimo DOC near Montalcino and spends 10 months refining in barrique. This accounts for it’s recent release, whereas the stainless steel produced Settimia was already bottled last year at the winery.
The 2016 Settimia is 100% Vermentino and is lively and fresh. Initially the wine is somewhat restrained on the nose but more aggressive swirling brings lemon peel, lemon wax and white flowers to the fore. Crisp, zesty and clean, this is light to medium bodied and would work well with delicate fish dishes or antipasto. I think 30 minutes in a decanter would be beneficial here. Just take care to ensure the wine doesn’t warm as it sits. 87 points
~ Settimia includes fruit from Maremma; hence the IGT designation ~
~ The barrel aging cellar at Caprili shows off several different sizes and shapes of barrels. The smallest one, called a Caratello, is used for aging the Montalcinese dessert wine; Moscadello ~
The 2016 Caprili Sant’Antimo Bianco is a great example of how differently the same grape can behave depending upon how the winemaker treats it. I can likely hear some people moaning disapprovingly at the idea of barrique aged Vermentino, but the oak influence on this wine was one more of body than of flavor.
The 2016 Bianco is a pale golden color. Unfiltered, it has a slightly cloudy aspect to it. Right from the start you would never mistake this for Settimia. On the nose, the wine has exotic ripe notes of melon, mango, and gardenia flowers. On the palate, cantaloupe, apricot, and pineapple flavors dominate a wine that boasts a degree of viscosity and body unlike it’s stainless cousin. There’s no butter or cream nuance here, just a slightly rounder texture rather than a crisper, delineated nature to the wine. This paired well with Burrata and Tomatoes and also crostini layered with goat cheese and yellow roasted peppers. Being a bit more substantial, it can stand next to more robust antipasto whereas Settimia works better with lighter dishes. Oak…like Slow Hand said: “It’s in the way that use it”. 87 points.
~ I think the success of both of these wines depends upon what they’re paired with. With shellfish or raw oysters, go for Settimia. With cheeses or even delicate fish, go with the Bianco ~
Salute!
Hi John,
If one must drink white wine then vermentino is a nice type to drink. We tasted the Settimia in a visit to the winery last year. I would very much like to try the Bianco. I expect we will search for it on the upcoming trip. At least to enjoy at mid-day. I am hoping the evenings are cool enough to sit outside and enjoy Rosso di M. , Brunello and Vino Nobile. Can’t forgot Orcia Rossos. Some day we will meet in the Val d‘Orcia and do some nice tastings at some small producers. Would enjoy going to a place like Poggio al Vento with you and taste Roberto’s Sangiovese while standing in his vineyards looking at Montalcino and discuss how great his wines taste yet he is just a few kms away from a completely different business model.
Take care,
Joe D
Like the people that build water parks just outside the Magic Kingdom eh? I hear you. And I also agree on white wine. I typically am 98% red, even in summer if the AC is on. If I’m outside, then it’s Birra. Mr. Moretti or Peroni. But, I do love Vernaccia or Vermentino, especially with me Pesto, which I am making today. Salute.
My enjoyment of Vermentino is not limited to Italy; I come to very much enjoy Vermentinu from Corsica. hard to fine but some wonderful wines. In all honesty I have more Coriscan vermentinu then Italian vermentino in the cellar right now.
Enjoy the fresh pesto!!!!!! I assume basil pesto but if you grow arugula then one day try that. A much different flavor.
I received my garden picking directions this morning and have picked red cabbage, peppers, cukes and beets. It will be a vegetable weekend.
The storms last night flattened a few of my tomatoes and most of my corn. Ugh, farming. We’ll inspect the damage later.
Hope you made out alright. Storms came through here early this morning but weaker than you had. Just some pepper plants knocked over a few tomatoes dropped from plants. Much needed rain though most of the day.
I propped up the tomatoes but there’s not much I can do about the corn. Bigger problem now is that it’s going to rain all week just as I’ve got lots of green and ripening tomatoes which will suck it all up and then split when they ripen. Grrrr. Very similar weather pattern to last year.