~ The view from Fattoria Petrolo ~
About two years ago, oddly almost to the day, I cracked the cellar door to uncork the 2010 Galatrona and check the progress of this gorgeous Merlot that enthralled me at Gambero Rosso. I provided a cautionary warning after “taking one for the team” and haven’t touched my 2010s since. So you’d think I would have learned my lesson when the eagerly awaited 2015 was released, but well, no.
Fattoria Petrolo has Roman origins; the name Petrolo comes from the term petroliarum (mansion-house or country residence) but older Etruscan settlements likely existed on the site where Petrolo currently resides. Petrolo makes three fabulous wines; Galatrona, Torrione, and Bòggina. The names are Etruscan, and the latter probably derives from an Etruscan family which lived and vacationed in the Tuscan hills 3000 years ago.
Galatrona is 100% Merlot that comes from a 10 hectare vineyard of the same name in the hills near Val d’Arno di Sopra on the edge of the Chianti Classico zone. The vineyard enjoys optimal exposition and drainage owing to the sloping vineyards. Predominantly clay, which is important for retaining water during the hot Tuscan summers, the soil of the vineyard also contains large deposits of shale and river stones.
~ Vineyards on the Petrolo Estate ~
The 2015 Fattoria Petrolo Galatrona is an enormous wine. Deep garnet to violet red in the glass, this elegant yet powerful Merlot fades only slightly toward the rim of the bowl. I knew this wine would be tight, so we double decanted it about 2 hours in advance. Even with vigorous coaxing, it was difficult to entice much aroma from the wine other than dark plum and wood notes. Faint notes of eucalyptus seem to be attached to the alcohol fumes as well. It’s simply just not there yet. On the palate, the wine is monolithic, with wonderfully ripe black fruit flavors surrounded by French oak tones of spice and cedar. The tannins are exactly what you’d expect – very powerful and drying – enamel stripping. This may need longer cellaring the 2010. Pinning this down to a rating is impossible at this young stage. To me, this is only slightly older than a barrel sample would be. I think it needs at least 5 years before it begins to show what I’m confident it will; likely closer to 10. Bury it very deep in your cellar. 92-99 points. I’ll grant you that may not me much help right now, but once again, I took one for the team. About $85. Find this wine.
~ Relying on pedigree here and will wait patiently for this to become what I’m sure it can be ~
Salute!
My indicative drinking window here was “not before 2026”, but this may still be somewhat too young, if I understand you correctly.
On a side note, I tried my first bottle of 2010 Torrione this weekend and was, frankly, disappointed. This bottle was lean, and with a very floral/vegetal component that overpowered everything else (I did not get much fruit). Substantially different from the opulence I came to expect from previous vintages I tried (2005, 2006, 2007 and 2009). And also very different from your note on this wine written in 2014 (although the leanness and florality are present there too).
I hope it is just an awkward phase, but I am doubtful unfortunately. Were they trying to change the style somewhat, or a lack in selection of the grapes? Frankly, the first 2010 bottle to underperform. And very surprised to see it’s a Petrolo.
On a second side note: I’ve always considered the Petrolo’s Torrione to be a somewhat similar style than Sette Ponti’s Crognolo (blend is more or less comparable, Carlo Ferrini is twice involved, ageing is almost identical – 15 vs 14 months barrique, they are 15 kms apart just outside chianti classico area between Arezzo and Florence,…). Well, in 2010, they are worlds apart at the moment… in favor of the Crognolo.
I just read my note on the Torrione. It’s funny you mention it because last weekend I opened another bottle of the 2010. I thought it performed very similarly to my first bottle, though maybe didn’t take as long to come around. It plumps up a lot with air. I suggest you decant a long time, like 2 hours. Also coincidentally, I just bought the 2015 Torrione. I may try it soon, but I’ll decant lengthily. At $24 it represents pretty nice value if it’s spot on.
In regards to Crognolo, I think the main difference there is new oak for Crognolo. Without looking, that would be my guess. Those wines are much more “international” in style. Sometimes I have a hard time believing that Crognolo is predominantly Sangiovese. Torrione is much more typical. You’ve piqued my curiosity now to try the 2015 Torrione. Damn you! Decant or die. Stay tuned……
Thanks John, I will give my next bottle a decant; this one was pnp (at almost 8 years of age, I reckoned it wasn’t necessary). Or maybe it’s just bottle variation, I don’t know.
For the record, Torrione is 1/3 new oak and 2/3 second year oak. I can’t find specs on the Crognolo on this, though.
Thanks again and best regards,
I can find out about Crognolo. To me, the Sette Ponti wines are always “lavishly oaked.” That’s not necessarily bad, but I’d never use that term with Petrolo’s wines. Stefano Guidi is no longer the winemaker. I’m not sure what vintage was his last, but it may bear watching despite Ferrini.
Steven;
I think from what you mentioned…it was an of bottle…