~ The 9 hectares of vineyards of Lorenzo Mattoni ~
I cherish Umbria, I really do. In fact, I’ve written many articles on it over the years including a Feature for the Sagrantino Consorzio. Oddly, I visited Umbria before ever stepping foot in Tuscany! Despite this, I continue to find new things to discuss. Today, it’s the story of Lorenzo Mattoni.
~ Lorenzo Mattoni in his vineyards ~
Although one of the newest winemakers on the Umbrian scene, Lorenzo Mattoni is no stranger to Montefalco. Indeed, his Father Lodovico was responsible for urging the ministry of agriculture to create the Sagrantino di Montefalco DOC in 1979. Subsequently, his continued lobbying helped elevate it to DOCG in 1992.
Lodovico was a visionary. In a time when Sagrantino was only vinified as a passito dessert wine, it was Lodovico who first vinified Sagrantino into a dry red. This was beyond visionary; almost radical, at the time. However, he understood that the key to Sagrantino was managing the grapes significant tannins. As a result, proper site selection and cellar management were significant keys to success.
~ Mattoni’s vineyards are outside Bevagna ~
Today Lorenzo works by a simple creed. One man, one vineyard, one wine. He is dedicated to Sagrantino and his 9 hectares of vineyards yield about 800 cases annually. Although production now includes a second wine, Sagrantino is still the primary focus.
The first wine tasted was Lorenzo’s newest.
Lorenzo Mattoni Dinamico 2020: Deep ruby. Black fruits and a bit of stemminess dominte the nose; hints of fresh green herbs emerge too. In the mouth, though tannic, I’m surprised how approachable it is. Dark cherry, black plum, fresh green herbs (tarragon) and dusty tannins are persistent throughout. Needs at least 5 years to mellow. I think better days lie ahead. This is a blend of 50% Sagrantino, 30% Cabernet and 20% Merlot that spends 10 months aging in grandi Botti after cement fermentation. 85 points. Available directly from the winery.
~ Dinamico needs decanting. Adding Cabernet to Sagrantino heightens the tension and structure of this young wine ~
Lorenzo Mattoni Sagrantino 2017: Deep, rich violet color. Crushed plum and flowers mark the attractive nose. Vibrant in the mouth. Tannic but not as massive as many Sagrantino can be. This is well balanced. Crushed wild cherry, cinnamon, cloves and tobacco round things out on the palate. Juicy and fresh but the tannins are plenty assertive, though powdery. This sees the same concrete fermentation and then spends 17 months in Slavonian tonneaux before bottle aging. The 2017 is the most recent release. 91 points. Available directly from the winery.
~ Sagrantino are monstrously tannic by nature, but the work in the cellar and the vineyard soil have created a wine a bit more approachable than many. Commendable. ~
Stay tuned. Over the next week or so, I’ll have another article coming on an Umbrian winery.
Salute!
