~ The Felsina Estate in Castelnuovo Berardenga is bucolically picturesque ~
Few estates are as well respected and consistently outstanding as Felsina. It’s an estate I typically recommend without a second’s hesitation when responding to requests for excellent Sangiovese. Simply put, they make some of Tuscany’s best. But perhaps what’s more significant, is that they do at all price points that remain highly affordable. Fontalloro is an excellent case in point.
~ The old barrel aging cellars at Felsina ~
Organically farmed, Felsina’s wines are produced from estate grown grapes from some of the zone’s oldest vineyards. Today, we’re discussing the newest release of Fontalloro. I’m asked often why this wine isn’t re-labeled as a Chianti Classico Gran Selezione. The answer is simple. Despite its excellence across vintages, the vineyard sources for this wine straddle the border between Chianti Classico and Chianti Colli Senese. As a result, the designation is not permitted. It matters little, since those in the know, know.
The man behind Fontalloro is Franco Bernabei. As an unruly teenage sporting long hair, longer sideburns and a tendency to rebel, he toured the bars of his native Veneto wailing Jimi Hendrix inspired guitar riffs with a band called The Icemen. That wandering trail blazing nature would eventually lead Bernabei to Tuscany. As the chain smoking, blazer wearing winemaker says: “Tuscany offered immense possibilities for an adventurous young winemaker and fertile terrain for testing new concepts.” Terrain figures high in Bernabei’s winemaking philospohy. “If I don’t find the right terrain,” he says, “I can’t embrace a cause.”
~ The view from the Rancia farmhouse overlooking the Rancia vineyard ~
The terrain around Felsina is impressive for sure. Comprised of 100% Sangiovese, Fontalloro is vinified in stainless steel tanks and then aged in a combination of new and used French Barrique for 18-22 months depending upon the vintage. After bottling, the wine is held up to an additional year prior to release.
The 2016 Felsina Fontalloro lives up to its reputation and to the hype. Tasted from a 375ml this is a deep crimson color with a sunburst ring around the edge of the bowl reminiscent of a fine Brunello. The aromas blossom with little effort on the part of the taster. Roses, lavender, crushed cherry and cured meat complete the package. Tight at first on the palate, with air this became less reticent – although the backdrop of the aged gouda may have helped. Full bodied, the crushed red fruits present elegantly on a soft chestnut/wood frame. Cypress and other dried herbs are attractive and the cured meat notes appear on the finish as well. Throughout all, this remains bright and fresh. The future here is compelling. 94 points. Find this wine.
~ We test drove the 2016 only from this 375ml bottle knowing too well that the wine does benefit from mid-term cellaring ~
Later this month, I’ll be tasting this wine with a group wine afficionados from a large format bottle that I will decant well in advance. I’ll revisit this article after that data point.
Salute!
Hi John,
Yes, Felsina is great. I had a bottle of their Berardenga chianti classico riserva 2011 last weekend and it was singing. No trace of heat from the vintage whatsoever, just classical sangiovese with a little extra plumpness from the vintage but the aromas and flavors were unaltered and fully intact. Really remarkable wine.
All the more because I had a bottle of Bucerchiale 2011 a few days prior – also made by Franco Bernabei. I know you are a fan John, but I myself cannot be really enthusiastic about their 2011, I’m sorry. I purchased 6 bottles (only one left now, I also served a few bottles at the celebration of my eldest’s first communion last year) and each time I taste it I get the impression they had trouble coping with the hot vintage. The wine is just too hot, full and alcoholic in my opinion, too “clumsy”. Mind you, it’s not bad and it’s well made, but it lacks “sangiovese-character” for me, it’s too “international”. Parker and Galloni scored the Bucerchiale 2011 91 and 92 respectively, whereas Kerin O’Keefe (Wine enthusiast) only rated it 87. And frankly, I’m siding with Kerin on this one.
I guess this is where our palates diverge… but if you would now taste the Felsina riserva and the Bucerchiale, both 2011, back to back, I am sure you will understand what I mean 🙂 So, same vintage, same grape, same winemaker, both 18 months barrique, totally different wines… location and vine management?!
Best regards,
Interesting. It’s been quite a while since I tasted the 2011 (2016) but it’s the 2009 I went long on. Have one bottle left. Felsina is in Berardenga as you know, so that often allows for a bit more plumpness to the wine. I have the 15 and 16 Riserva but nothing older so I’ll have to see where it goes. Thanks for chiming in! And yes, clearly it’s an altitude and soil issue that causes the difference. I’m convinced of that. Basically the same difference between CC and Colli Senesi. Soil is king!
Hi John,
15 and 16? You have something to look forward to, then 🙂
I think these bottles will still need a few years. I still have the 2010 and when tasted in Oktober 2018 this was still too young for my tastes. One of my friends also tasted this in November 2019 and he still thought it to be too young (much better on day 2).
So, in excellent vintages, this is also a wine that demands time. We’ll see what the 2010 is like in the fall of 2020, as I’m planning to hold a tasting around “Tuscany 2010: 10 years later”; with all wines based on a majority of sangiovese (and from 2010 of course 😉 ). This will however not include the absolute top wines (e.g. Cepparello, Tignanello, classic top brunello, Rancia and Fontalloro…) as I consider 2010 to be a vintage for the long haul and I think that these top wines will not yet be in their drinking wine – I’m aiming to open these when the’re 12 or more :-). But I am keeping my fingers crossed for the Felsina riserva 2010.
Can I ask, what are your thoughts on the drinking window of 2010, John?
Best regards,
Hi Steven, A few of us were just talking about 2010s the other day. I think the bigger Riservas and Super T’s are still off limits. I’m thinking Rancia, some of the better Gran Selezione, Tignanello, Cepparello – things like that. With Brunello, I think you can dabble a bit. i’d stick with the more approachable producers. Lower altitude, maybe warmer areas. (Argiano, Col d’Orcia, Banfi, Camigliano, La Poderina, Fanti) I’d be willing to check in on these and see how they are. However, if you have any 2011’s (Altero) I’d go there first and especially with 2008 which is really drinking well right now. The trick is buying enough to sample 🙂 Your 10 year retrospective tasting should be fun.
Hi John,
I think we’re on the same page regarding 2010.
Thanks for the tips: unfortunately I did not buy any 2011 brunello, but I will start to dip into my few 2008 bottles.
Best regards,
Hey Steven, well, at my first Inuaurgal Open House for a Followers/readers we cracked a 2010 Capanna to rousing reviews. No decanting. I actually didn’t try it but barring a 1999 Soldera it was probably the wine of the night. So, there’s that. ????