A narrow pass through a dark forest, the ruins of an Etruscan tomb excavated and restored, and a dominant view over the vineyards gives Al Passo (“The Pass”) its legendary folklore.
We wine lovers need what I like to call, “Cellar Sentinels”. These are wines that stand guard at the entrance of your cantina and prevent you from plundering your resting gems. They need to be affordable, delicious and reliable. Tolaini’s Al Passo fits this bill as well as any wine I can think of.
Over 3,000 years ago, the heart of Tuscany was home to the ancient Etruscans, a civilization that was recognized for their culture and wine. Tolaini embraces this history and today mixes ancient elements with modern winemaking. The symbol “Y”, carved into the stone that stands at the gates of the estate, is the Etruscan symbol for the modern letter “T”.
Originally conceived as a blend of Sangiovese (85%) and Merlot (15%) Al Passo has undergone some changes recently. As of 2016 the current blend is 34% Sangiovese, 33% Merlot and 33% Cabernet. About 100,000 bottles are produced each year depending upon the vintage.
The 2016 Tolaini Al Passo is a true Cellar Sentinel. In the glass the wine is a pretty violet color throughout. The aromas lift easily from the bowl and feature blue and purple flowers, freshly crushed cherry, black licorice, tobacco leaf and fresh herbs. It’s a level of complexity not typically seen in wines at this price point.
On the palate, the wine is round, fruity and polished. Flavors of cherries and black plums dominate the profile with accents from new leather and sweet fennel. Attractive, with fresh acidity and a medium length finish. Drink now, or hold or 2-4 years. 92 points. Price varies, but should be under $20. Find this wine.
For additional data points on Al Passo see the 2010 here and the 2007 here.
Salute!
Sounds like an interesting blend and wine…..I will search for.
Amazing to see the owner signature on the cork…Cheers ????????
This is their “base” wine. I’ll have reviews on others in the near weeks.
Cellar Sentinel is a great concept. For us it’s Rodano Chianti Classico. It’s a beautiful example of pretty traditional CC from Castellina. Very interesting producer in that there is no hospitality aspect, no direct sales room, not even really a sign in front. Their business strategy seems to be to simply grow, bottle and ship. The emotional connection is I first found this wine in a grocery store in Missoula Montana and shared with friends on their front porch at the bottom of Mount Sentinel (a certain irony there). Easy to find (a key aspect of cellar sentinels), always under $20, a real victory lately when I was able to buy a couple bottles for $15. Worth every penny and more, highly recommend.
I’ll have to revisit them Steve. From what I remember, they are very traditional and a bit too much so for my taste. Did not recall they were from Castellina so that piques my interest although it also has me wondering if I’m thinking about the same wine. For $15 it’s hard to go wrong, no question. For those who like the style, it’s a home run. For those that may be on the fence, it may seem a “cheap” wine. This is part of the reason why what I do is important. (not to toot my own horn) A basic tasting note with nothing more than a score is relatively useless. A discussion of the estate’s tradition, including history and of course, style is a big plus in my mind. One example that comes to mind is Tenuta di Arceno. Nice wines. Well made. Stylistically not my thing because of their forward ripeness in one of Chianti Classico’s warmer zones. Too “international” for me. That’s not to say I frown on International grapes because that’s not what I mean here. Simply, the advanced ripeness nullifies the terroir. at any rate, lucky for us there are lots of wines to choose from. John