Greatness comes in many forms. Webster’s Dictionary defines greatness as: “expressing a state and being highly distinguished and eminent”. Poggio all’Oro Riserva stands eminently as one of the greatest Brunello in Tuscany.
The Poggio all’Oro vineyard is 100 acres of pristine rolling hillside that enjoys optimal exposition on the Castello Banfi estate. Lying at 300 meters above sea level, the “Golden Knoll” enjoys characteristic soils comprised of clay mixed with maritime silt, stones and pebbles. It is poor soil that is ideal for wine cultivation.
Poggio All’Oro is produced in only the greatest of vintages. Since 1978 it has been bottled only 14 times. It is 100% Sangiovese Grosso and is vinified using Castello Banfi’s patented hybrid fermentation tanks. Prior to becoming Brunello Riserva, the wine is aged in a combination of French barrels of varying sizes. For 30 months, 70% of the wine rests in 60-90 hectoliter casks while 30% of the wine ages in barrique. The balance of aging required prior to release takes place once the wine is bottled.
The 2004 Castello Banfi Brunello Riserva “Poggio all’Oro” is one the greatest Brunello I have ever enjoyed. We decanted the wine approximately 90 minutes before dinner but honestly, it didn’t need it. While the texture of the wine increased in viscosity with the air, the flavors and aromas were amazing from the start.
In the glass, this Riserva presents a fantastic array of colors. Deep ruby with violet, garnet, copper and brick reflections it’s a virtual kaleidoscope. From the glass, the aromas rise in harmony. Deep notes of crushed cherry and plums are joined by bright fennel, roasted coffee, sweet tobacco and Christmas Cake spices. On the palate, the flavors echo the nose with precision. The texture of this wine is what sets it apart. Powdery tannins laced with sea bed minerals coat the palate without dominating. Instead, they provide a vehicle for the flavors to ride upon. The wine is fresh and lively, belying its 17 years of age. Easily this could last another 5 years in your cellar. However, I’m not sure I see the point in holding it. Simply amazing! 98 points. Find this wine.
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