~ The new barrique cellar at Castello di Fonterutoli ~
~ The ancient library of lineage at Castello di Fonterutoli ~
Today we’re focusing on the 20th anniversary release of a very special wine; a wine the Mazzei family claims was the first ever produced from equal parts Sangiovese and Merlot. It’s a blend of grapes that I often adore. There is something about the marriage of these two varietals that results in a velvety, fruit driven experience that is tinged with terroir and high toned refreshing acidity. I was excited to taste this most recent release, but sadly, I was let down.
The 2012 Castello di Fonterutoli Siepi is sourced from vineyards on the family estate in Castellina in Chianti. A 50% blend of Sangiovese and Merlot, the vines that provide fruit for this wine range from 17-30 years in age. Siepi is growing up. But something was amiss here.
The wine is a gorgeous violet to purple color with only a slight fade at the rim of the bowl. The aromas are attractive with exotic spices of clove, nutmeg and cinnamon framing crushed red plum notes. On the palate, the wine seems muted. The texture is somewhat lean with an absent/hollow mid-palate and a finish that is tarter than the charm of Sangiovese typically imparts. This was purchased from a very reputable retailer and the wine came with a Certificate of Validation certifying that the cork would be 100% free from taint – or oddly – I’d be entitled to a refund. This is the first time I’ve ever encountered something like that. The point being, I don’t think this bottle was flawed in any way and that concerns me as I have several left in the cellar. I will try sooner rather than later. This was rated 98 by a prominent critic. Not this bottle. No way. The numbers here are reversed. 89 and just barely. What’s more? A poor value around $80+. Find this wine.
~ Siepi is aged in French Barrique for 18 months prior to release. Two thirds of the barrels are new and the balance have held the prior vintage of Siepi. ~
Buon Venerdi!
I’ve never found Siepi to be Mazzei’s best work. CC Riserva is simply much better wine, regardless of price.
I remember loving Siepi in the mid-90’s but I don’t see it around much at all. I hunted these down out of curiosity and maybe a bit of nostalgia. I love the Ser Lapo and the recently reviewed Philip was nice too; as well as their Gran Selezione. I look forward to trying another bottle. Good to chat Steve.
Hi John and folks
I understand that is we are not used to Siepi or for Marchesi Mazzei having not perfect quality. I am a lover and admire of Mazzei Wines and came in touch with the family in Sicily started with Filippo in Zisola 2009. The wines are spectacular and to me still the best value of the various wines. I love Siepi as well very much and have many different years. like, 1992, 2002, 2003-2008 + 2010 – 2015 now. Yes, in general the 2012 is really different and I asked Francesco Mazzei why. His answer was, the 2012 was really difficult year for all in Tuscany including Mazzei. But he guarantees the 2012 needs much more time then other years of Siepi and still the wine is still not ready yet. I will try another one in December and hopefully I can report some positives.
Best regards, Maurizio
Ciao Maurizio,
Thank you for chiming in! It is interesting to think what may become of the 2012 Siepi. I agree, 2012 was not a great year in Tuscany and I was skeptical about buying that vintage. But when I saw Suckling and many others review so highly, I figured I’d give it a shot because it had been a long time since I tried Siepi. I loved the 1997 and 1999. So perhaps I will wait and I do plan to get some of the 2015. Again, thank you for the first hand information and I would love to hear your impressions when you open one.
Salute amico!
John
I will open another bottle right away….could be the cork peroxide chemical killed the juice components…happen to me several times.
Cork is becoming a night mare….I have seen stunning beautiful and expensive perfect cork…ageing a dull simple wine…and I have seen simple, inexpensive small cork ageing a gorgeous classic red..
Good luck…????
I am tempted to try another soon too. Please let me know what you find.
The problem in my view is the increased line-up of Fonterutoli. They introduced Mix36 in 2008 (apparently the best Sangiovese of 36 areas), they re-introduced the Concerto (also heavy on Sangiovese) last year. And you still have Siepi, also 50% Sangiovese…. So in which Wine are you putting your best Sangiovese grapes??? While it probably makes sense business wise, quality wise it surely doesn’t.
Agreed Patrick. To say nothing of their Gran Selezione and Ser Lapo. I never liked Mix 36. It’s a dumb name, a dumb idea and a mediocre wine.