Cellar Note: Classic Caprili Riserva

~ As you drive to Montalcino Centro, you know you’re almost there when you see this sign ~

There are estates that release Brunello Riserva simply as a tool to create more revenue.  Brunello that has simply been aged for an additional year prior to release.  While there is nothing wrong with that, in my mind it doesn’t justify the increased prices that the wines often command.

When I debate adding these wines to my cellar and recommending them to you,  I look for wines that have two characteristics.  One, they must be subjected to severe grape selection and two, preferably be sourced from a single vineyard.  Caprili’s Riserva “Ad Alberto” is one such wine.  I last tasted this in 2017 at the estate with winemaker Giacomo Bartolommei.  Named for Giacomo’s Great Grandfather, the Caprili Riserva is sourced from the “Vigna Madre” – or Mother Vineyard – the first parcel planted on the estate in 1965.

~ The Vigna Madre lies in front of Caprili’s winery and has wonderful exposition. It was planted in 1965 and produces intensely flavored grapes ~

The 2006 Caprili Brunello di Montalcino Riserva is a mammoth wine of incredible stature, structure, power and finesse.  We decanted the wine for about an hour prior to dinner in order to remove a chunky, coffee grind like sediment, but the air was kind to the aromas.

Deep garnet in the glass and nearly black in the decanter, the wine fades gracefully to a ruby/sunburst rim.  On the nose, the taster is greeted by ripe cherry, roasted coffee, hazelnut and turned earth.  Impressive complexity.  On the palate, the wine is wonderfully balanced between layers of crushed red fruit, coffee notes, sweet tobacco and powdery, flinty mineral driven tannins.  They are not shy about exerting themselves so while this was an absolute joy with the meat, there is no rush to drink this.  Hard to complain about anything here and although this is great, it may even get better in a few more years. For now, 97 points.  Find this wine.

~ As Giacomo mentioned in our interview – In front of a steak he likes to drink Brunello. There is not a better pairing than Fiorentina ~

For more data points on Caprili’s wines, simply type “Caprili” into the Search Feature of this site.

Salute!