It’s hard to believe as I write this that the 2010 Tuscans are almost a decade old. Where in the world did the time go? As purveyors and consumers turn their focus to 2015, quietly the 2010s have matured. By its nature, I’ve always believed the best Sangiovese wines begin to peak around 10 years of age and when stored properly, will last and improve a decade beyond that. The 2010 Cepparello seems well on its way. And based upon my earlier review way back in 2012, patience indeed was rewarded.
The present day Isole e Olena Estate was carved from two adjacent properties that existed in Barberino Val d’Elsa; Isole and Olena. Lying midway between Firenze and Siena, the properties were purchased by the De Marchi family in 1950 and today, “Isole e Olena” comprises approximately 290 hectares.
I met Paolo de Marchi years ago. He’s as humble as humble can be. He is “a simple farmer” as he says with an almost dismissive wave of the hand. Yet even if that were true, the lovely fruits of his labor result in something that is far more than simple. Orchestral leaps to mind. Contrarian. Complex and harmonic. These platitudes are not misplaced when it comes to his flagship wines.
The 2010 Isole e Olena Cepparello is still young! A deep garnet red in color, it looks as though it hasn’t aged in the least since it was bottled. Deep, perfumed aromas of ripe cherry, brown cigar tobacco, stones and fennel are notable. In the mouth, the wine is balanced, elegant and long. Ripe, crushed red fruits are fresh and lively. Although mostly primary, the wine does exhibit fennel notes and hints of ground espresso bean. It’s lovely and after about 60 minutes of air, the mouthfeel became silkier and the body increased. I’d suggest decanting for an hour if you want try this now. However, conservatively this will last another decade in a proper cellar. 96 points. Find this wine.
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