The Poggio Valente vineyard was planted in 1970 under the watchful of eye of Giacomo Tachis. At the time, it was a ground breaking because mono-varietal Sangiovese wines from Maremma were unheard of. However, Tachis was insistent that excellent Sangiovese could be made there. Today, that idea and the passionate drive of Elisabetta Geppetti, have transformed 14 hectares of vineyards into a brilliant oasis.
Fattoria Le Pupille is a fixture on the Rustic Tuscany Tour and with good reason. In this corner of Maremma, few wineries excel like Le Pupille does. From their incredibly drinkable every day wines, to their flagship offerings, Geppetti’s insistence on quality shows.
That persistence, that insistence on quality is on display at every turn. Our tour begins with a tasting of the entire line-up and then a “surprise treat” from the cellar. With food and the conviviality shown by our host Ludmilla, the guests are absorbed. The dedication to quality is evident from the first sip of the first wine, Pelofino; a pretty blend of Sangiovese with tiny portions of Merlot and Cabernet, it is juicy and fresh. The attention shown to the production of Pelofino easily convinces the guests of what is to come.
The 2020 Poggio Valente is 100% Sangiovese. I decided not to decant the wine, but to open it and let is sit for about an hour. A previous taste was a bit shy in expression so I decided to be patient. In the glass, the wine is a deep ruby with a faint amber rim at the edge of the bowl. Fresh flowers, herbs, crushed red berries and hints of toasted spices are attractive on the nose.
In the mouth, the wine is bright and juicy with crushed cherry dominating. There’s a streak of dried herb which mellows slightly as the wine airs. Hints of soft tobacco and toasted spices linger. This is not a bruiser. I once referred to this wine as a “brick house” of a Sangiovese. But I don’t sense that here. It’s more subdued, more playful. It will be delicious in the near term and over the next 10 years. In fact, on the last tour we tasted Poggio Valente from 1997. It was a Morellino di Scansano then. It was fresh and lively but had surely taken on the leathery, balsamic notes that come with long aging. I don’t see the 2020 lasting that long. Enjoy it now. 93 points and a good value at $38. Find this wine & Support Tuscan Vines.
So in the spirit of the special treat from the cellar, here’s a special bonus for you. Last year on the Tour I had bought a magnum of Saffredi to share with the group. It was just by happenstance that magnums were available because they were allocated for Russia. But their misfortune given the war, was my gain. However, one thing led to another and the magnum never got opened. Until my wife’s birthday party…
The 2018 Saffredi is a deep violet in the glass. As with other 18s I’ve had, this is juicy, vibrant, aromatic and lively. It is a stunner from the magnum. Bright blue floral aromas rise from the glass with notes of black fruits, toasted spices and roasted nuts. Elegant, classy and polished in the mouth – the tannins are seamlessly integrated and provide structure with powdery support. The finish is long and tinged with licorice and coffee. Saffredi never disappoints and it’s a must buy for me in every vintage. 95 points. Find this wine.
I’m looking forward to visiting Le Pupille this September during the Rustic Tuscany Tour. I will be on the hunt for more magnums.
Salute!