~ Overlooking some of the Vineyards on the Lornano Estate ~
Tuscan Snips has turned 20! How has that happened? It was six years ago that the very first installment debuted and since then, “Snips” remains a popular series at Tuscan Vines. With Volume 19 in the books this past January, the momentum for Snips is forceful. Andiamo!
I have written a lot about Fattoria Le Pupille over the years and it’s no wonder – the wines are excellent and in today’s market, still represent value. This is also further illustrated by the fact that Le Pupille remains one of the first visits on the Rustic Tuscany Tour.
The 2023 Harvest in Tuscany was about as bad as it gets. Winegrowers and Cellar Masters faced about every challenge you could name with disastrous results. But there was a bright spot. Along the Tuscan coast – Maremma and Bolgheri fared better. These areas benefit greatly from the maritime breezes of the sea. And as a result, a lot of the fungal diseases that plagued inland Tuscany were mitigated; at least partially.
The 2023 Fattoria Le Pupille Saffredi is simply gorgeous and will prove the exception to the rule: Producer over Vintage. It’s a dark purple in the glass that is nearly opaque. On the nose, the wine is expressive with black fruits, toasted spice and savory herbs like rosemary and thyme prevalent. Blackberry in the mouth dominates with hints of basil and dark cocoa powder combining with the integrated tannin structure. This is so well done for the vintage and succulent right now. It may not have the staying power of more classic years, but this is really enjoyable and some great winemaking. 96 points and still a value around $99. The 2023 is a blend of 60% Cabernet, 35% Merlot and 5% Petit Verdot. Not yet fully released. Many shops are offering pre-arrivals. Find this wine.
~ If Saffredi is produced, buy it ~
A few months ago, I penned a long awaited reprise about Castello del Terricio and the exciting new changes undergoing there with the ascension of Vittorio Medelana to the helm. At the time, the following wine wasn’t available, but since then Vittorio has sent it to me. During the interview – here is what he said:
“When I assumed leadership of Castello del Terriccio, I felt a deep desire to create a wine in honour of my uncle, Gian Annibale. I shared this idea with Carlo, (Ferrini) who embraced it immediately and with genuine enthusiasm. The wine we conceived is a distinctive blend composed of 60% Petit Verdot and 40% Cabernet Sauvignon, intended to reflect my uncle’s character. The Petit Verdot used for the Gian Annibale wine comes from a single, isolated vineyard that my uncle had resolutely wished to establish. Production is deliberately limited, ranging between 3,000 and 5,000 bottles per year, and only in the finest vintages.”
The 2019 Castello del Terriccio Gian Annibale is a stupendous debut. It’s a brilliant, shimmering dark garnet in the glass. The aromas are pronounced and leap from the glass. Black plum, blue flowers, crushed stone, ground coffee and baking spices are harmonious. I love the smell of a coffee shop. Luxurious in the mouth with soft, coating flavors of crushed blackberry, mint, terra cotta, pipe tobacco and powdered stones. This is so complex. Refreshing acidity makes it stand out as Italian. But make no mistake, this is a huge, fruit first behemoth. 97 points. Not a value at all. Find this wine.
~ A massive wine that blends warm climate ripeness with Italian tipicity in a deft way ~
Someone remarked to me on “X” the other day that 2018 was so underrated. I replied simply, “Not by me!” Indeed, I have loved 2018 from the first Brunello I’ve tasted. And as the flagship wines have come to market, I’ve had the chance to taste many. This past Fall, I shipped some wines from Gagliole home during the Rustic Tuscany Tour. Pecchia is always top notch and this beauty was no exception.
The 2018 Gagliole Pecchia is 100% Sangiovese and sourced from vineyards in Panzano. This is an old vineyard with low yields, but still, this wine shows impressive concentration for the vintage. Deep garnet color with polished and potent aromas of crushed cherry, tobacco leaf, Christmas cake spices and hints of truffle. On the palate, this is more elegant than you might expect. Bold flavors are woven together perfectly with dark red fruit being accented by Tuscan scrub, baking spices and fennel seed. Long, juicy and lovely. 97 points. Your best to find this is directly from the winery. Find this wine.
~ Pecchia shares the top of the Gagliole Pedestal ~
The next wine is the perfect candidate for Tuscan Snips because it needs no introduction.
Sassicaia is 85% Cabernet Sauvignon and 15% Cabernet Franc. Like the great Bordeaux estates on which Tenuta San Guido was modeled, the wine’s construction mirrors the plantings in the vineyards. Giacomo Tachis inspired the formula and that’s been the case since 1968.
The Tenuta San Guido 2020 Sassicaia is a marvel. Dark purple, totally opaque. I “decanted” the wine in the glass because I was alone and Coravined it. So I let it sit there for about 45 minutes before I touched it. The way I have always thought of this wine in my mind is that it’s Chateau Latour and Chateau Mouton Rothschild in Italian skin with Italian acidity and Italian ripeness.
What do I mean? The best of Bolgheri is a philosophical love child of Napa Valley and Bordeaux with Italian roots. Sassicaia is crushed black fruit. It’s blue flowers. It’s crushed limestone. It’s mints. It’s rosemary. It’s espresso. It’s viscous, ripe, seductive and long. It’s palate cleansing. It’s nearly flawless. 98 points. I can’t really call it a value, but given the price of it’s most direct contemporaries (Masseto, Ornellaia, Solaia) it’s not completely out of reach. Find this wine.
~ This Sassicaia was nearly perfect ~
Big classy reds all. But now, with Summer upon us, I must diverge a little.
Tenuta Fanti is one of my favorite wineries in the Brunello zone, specifically from Castelnuovo dell’Abate. Naturally, most think of their reds and rightly so. But this is another annual destination for Rustic Tuscany and when we’re there, we get to taste wines that only pop up at the winery. One such gem is Elisa’s newest creation – a 100% Trebbiano that is barrel fermented and aged on the lees for 7 months in Tonneaux.
What started out as a fun “project”….. “I wonder what would happen if we made a barrel or two of Trebbiano….” These grapes grow close to the vineyard sources for the Vallocchio Cru. They are optimally located in steep, hillside vineyards.
The 2025 Tenuta Fanti Trebbiano is barrel fermented and then bottled. Taste of oak? Not a lick. But you feel it in the body of the wine. That’s a good thing because it allows the wine to be more assertive with food. This was great with assorted antipasto but it also worked with vitello Milanese. On the nose, a pretty bouquet of white flowers, (jasmine) citrus fruits and lemon grass. In the mouth, the wine shows pretty medium viscosity but still manages to stay delightfully fresh. Citrus notes combine with powdery minerals and the finish is tinged with white peaches. I love this and plan to send some home in September when we visit Fanti. Available directly from the winery. 90 points.
~ This is a gorgeous wine and a real leap for Trebbiano ~
There will be more “Summer offerings” showing up in the coming weeks including a wonderful Rosato from our friends at San Lorenzo. Also, some on the ground updates of the harvest thus far, and the comings and goings on of things Tuscany from my recent visit. Stay tuned!
Of course, 2021 Brunello tastings have begun and Part 2 of the Current Chianti Coverage will be coming as well as two new Recipes I plan to document. Salute!
